Yaxchilan () is an ancient Maya city located on the bank of the Usumacinta River in the state of Chiapas, Mexico. In the Late Classic Period Yaxchilan was one of the most powerful Maya states along the course of the Usumacinta River, with Piedras Negras as its major rival. Architectural styles in subordinate sites in the Usumacinta region demonstrate clear differences that mark a clear boundary between the two kingdoms. and had a long rivalry with Piedras Negras and at least for a time with Tikal; it was a rival of Palenque, with which Yaxchilan warred in 654.
The site is particularly known for its well-preserved sculptured stone lintels set above the doorways of the main structures. These lintels, together with the stelae erected before the major buildings, contain hieroglyphic texts describing the dynastic history of the city. Early archaeologist Désiré Charnay dubbed the ruins "Lorillard City" in honor of Pierre Lorillard who contributed to defray the expense of his expedition into the Maya zone, while Alfred Maudslay named it "Menché". For some time, the Emblem Gylph was read as Siyaj Chan, or "Sky Born".
Location
thumb|right|West Acropolis of Yaxchilan
Yaxchilan is located on the south bank of the River, at the apex of a horseshoe-shaped meander. This loop defends the site on all sides except for a narrow land approach from the south. Yaxchilan is from the ruins of Bonampak. The site lies in Ocosingo Municipality in the state of Chiapas, on the Mexican side of the international border with Guatemala, which follows the line of river. It is downriver from the Maya site Altar de Sacrificios. Some retrospective inscriptions appear to have been used to rewrite Yaxchilan's dynastic history to suit king Bird Jaguar IV. Before the rule of king Itzamnaaj Balam II, who reigned from 681 to 742, the city was relatively small. He was the founder of a long dynasty and took the throne when Yaxchilan was still a minor site. The long-running rivalry with Piedras Negras had already begun by the fifth century AD, with both cities struggling to dominate the Usumacinta trade route. Bird Jaguar II, the next king of Yaxchilan, captured a vassal of the king of Piedras Negras around 478. In 514, Knot-eye Jaguar I was taken captive by Ruler C of Piedras Negras, as depicted on Lintel 12 from that city, where he is shown kneeling before the enemy king with his wrists bound.
His successor, K'inich Tatb'u Skull II, was enthroned on 11 February 526. This king is notable for the series of carved lintels he commissioned, including a dynastic list that provides information on the early kings of the city.
Late Classic
The Yaxchilano murals at Bonampak's Structure I commemorate Yaxchilan's appointment of Chan Muwaan I as subordinate ruler. Yaxchilan rebuilt the site to point back toward Yaxchilan.
In 629, Bird Jaguar III was enthroned as king of Yaxchilan. In 646 or 647 he captured a lord from the site of Hix Witz (meaning "Jaguar Hill"), somewhere on the north side of the Usumacinta, Itzamnaaj B'alam II was enthroned in October 681 and he ruled for more than sixty years. During the last third of his reign he was responsible for a monumental building programme that included the erection of magnificent buildings with richly carved lintels, hieroglyphic stairways and carved stelae, transforming the centre of the city. At times the sites of Lacanha and Bonampak appear to have been under his domination, although this region was controlled by Toniná in 715.
In 689, relatively early in his reign, Itzamnaaj B'alam II is recorded as having captured Aj Sak Ichiy Pat. In 713 he captured Aj K'an Usja, the ajaw, or lord, of B'uktunn, an otherwise unknown site. It is after this period, over forty years into the reign of Itzamnaaj B'alam II, that this king embarked upon his impressive building programme, this may indicate that at this time Yaxchilan was able to exert independence from the hegemony of once powerful neighbours and claim greater political independence and more lucrative control of riverine trade. If Yopaat B'alam II was king of Yaxchilan at this time, this would indicate that he was subordinate to the king of Piedras Negras. This event was recorded on Piedras Negras Panel 3; there are no records of the reign of Yopaat B'alam II at Yaxchilan itself, indicating that any records were later destroyed if he had indeed ruled there. Circa 790 CE, Yaxchilan's king Shield Jaguar III oversaw the installation of Chan Muwaan II in Bonampak, and hired Yaxchilano artisans to commemorate it (and the previous Chan Muwaan) in "Structure I"'s murals.
In 808, king K'inich Tatb'u Skull III marked his capture of K'inich Yat Ahk II, the last king of Piedras Negras, an event that probably represented the final overthrow of Yaxchilan's long running enemy, ending dynastic rule there and destroying the city as a capital. King Itzamnaaj B'alam II is shown holding a torch, while his wife Lady K'ab'al Xook draws a barbed rope through her pierced tongue, British Museum.]]
The first published mention of the site seems to have been a brief mention by Juan Galindo in 1833, published by the Royal Geographical Society. Professor Edwin Rockstoh of the National College of Guatemala visited in 1881 and published another short account. Teoberto Maler visited the site repeatedly from 1897 to 1900, his detailed two volume description of the ruins and other nearby sites was published by the Peabody Museum of Harvard University in 1903. Since then Peter Mathews and others have expanded on her early work.
The site
The site contains impressive ruins, with palaces and temples bordering a large plaza upon a terrace above the Usumacinta River. Over 120 inscriptions have been identified on the various monuments from the site. The South Acropolis occupies the highest part of the site. The site is aligned with relation to the Usumacinta River, at times causing unconventional orientation of the major structures, such as the two ballcourts.
Structures
thumb|right|Structure 6, south façade
Structure 6 is near the Main Plaza in the Central Acropolis. It is in a good state of preservation and has six doorways, three facing the plaza and three facing the river.
Structure 9 is an unrestored mound northwest of Structure 7. The structure is located in the Central Acropolis close to one of the ballcourts. The lintels record nine generations of rulers of the city. Some of the lintels remain in place. It is located on the Main Plaza of the Central Acropolis. Five sculpted ballcourt markers were found here, three of which were aligned on the playing area and one on each of the platforms to either side. The three doorways to this structure once supported sculpted Lintels 12, 13 and 14, although only two now remain. The three lintels over the doorways in this structure were Lintels 15 through to 17, although they were removed in the 19th century and are now in the British Museum in London.
Structure 22 is on a terrace in the Central Acropolis near the Main Plaza. Structure 23 is dedicated to Lady K'ab'al Xook, a wife of the king. This series of lintels are among the finest relief sculpture surviving in the Maya region.
Structure 24 is on a terrace near the Main Plaza in the Central Acropolis.
Structure 33, in the Central Acropolis, has been described as a masterpiece in stone and was probably dedicated in 756 by Bird Jaguar IV. The structure overlooks the plaza and the river and would have been prominent to river traffic in the 8th century. A number of stelae and altars are associated with them.
Structure 44 is in the West Acropolis.
Structure 67 is the southeast ballcourt, located in the Central Acropolis.
Monuments
thumb|right|Section of step VII from Hieroglyphic Stairway 2 leading to Structure 33, related to the ballgame and dating to 757.
Hieroglyphic stairways
Hieroglyphic Stairway 1 leads up to Structure 5 in the Central Acropolis. It also shows Bird Jaguar IV, this time accompanied by an ally.
Lintel 10 is the last known monument at Yaxchilan, dating to 808.
Lintel 12 was originally set into Structure 20 in the Central Acropolis. It was originally set above the southeast doorway of the central room. It shows Bird Jaguar IV holding a spear and standing over a kneeling captive. It dates to the reign of Bird Jaguar IV. The lintel has traces of red and blue pigments. The Vision Serpent rising before her has two heads, one at each extreme, from the mouth of one emerges a warrior, from the other emerges the head of central Mexican deity Tlaloc, a water god from the distant metropolis of Teotihuacan in the Valley of Mexico.
[[Image:Yaxchilan lintel 25.jpg|thumb|left|Lintel 25 at Yaxchilan, now in the British Museum.
Lintel 50 is set into Structure 13 in the Central Acropolis.
Stela 2 is on the lowest terrace opposite the stairway approach to Structure 33. This stela is the earliest known from Yaxchilan.