Ulva (; ) is a small island in the Inner Hebrides of Scotland, off the west coast of Mull. It is separated from Mull by a narrow strait, and connected to the neighbouring island of Gometra by a bridge. Much of the island is formed from Cenozoic basalt rocks, which are formed into columns in places.
Ulva has been populated since the Mesolithic period, and there are various Neolithic remains on the island. The Norse occupation of the island in the Early Middle Ages has left few tangible artefacts but did bequeath the island its name, which is probably from Ulvoy, meaning "wolf island". Celtic culture was a major influence during both Pictish and Dalriadan times as well as the post-Norse period when the islands became part of modern Scotland. This long period, when Gaelic became the dominant language, was ended by the 19th-century Clearances. At its height, Ulva had a population of over 800, but by May 2019, this had declined to 5. Some increase in the number of residents was expected in future, with the re-population plan that was to commence in 2020 although by 2022 the resident population was just six. and the North West Mull Community Woodland Company took ownership of the island on 21 June 2018.
Geography
right|thumb|Tràigh Bhàn, looking South east toward [[Ben More (Mull)|Ben More on Mull.]]
Ulva is roughly oval in shape with an indented coastline. It is aligned east-west, being long, and wide. Viewed on a small scale, Ulva and its neighbouring island Gometra appear to be a peninsula of the Isle of Mull, as they are separated from one another by narrow straits. Caolas Ulbha (the Sound of Ulva) at the east of the island is a narrow channel a few hundred metres across to Ulva Ferry on Mull. To its west, it is separated from Gometra by Gometra Harbour. To the south are Mull's headlands of Ardmeanach and the Ross of Mull. To the north, Loch Tuath (Loch-a-Tuath) separates it from another headland of Mull, and to the south east is Loch na Keal (Loch nan Ceall), and the island of Eorsa. There are two main bays on the south coast, Port a' Bhàta, and Tràigh Bhàn. On the north coast, there is the horseshoe bay of Lòn Bhearnuis (Bearnus lagoon), Soriby Bay and a few minor inlets.
The highest point of Ulva is Beinn Chreagach ("rocky mountain"), which reaches . It has a neighbour in Beinn Eoligarry the summit of which is above sea level. The island has a central ridge, with the highest ground running along its lateral axis - this ridge is somewhat broken by Gleann Glas and some other valleys. The south east peninsula tends to be lower lying, with a small plain along the south coast, consisting of raised beaches.
Parish and region
Ulva was part of Argyll pre-1974, and Strathclyde Region after that. It is now part of Argyll and Bute.
The island, previously a quoad sacra parish with its own church, is in the civil parish of Kilninian and Kilmore (Cill Ninein, Chille Mhór), which also includes Gometra, Staffa, Little Colonsay and the north-west part of Mull. The minister traditionally preached in Kilninian and Kilmore on alternate Sundays. between Little Colonsay and Ulva. Off Port a' Bhàta are Geasgill Beag & Geasgill Mòr, between Ulva and Inchkenneth. To the south west is Sgeir na Sgeireadh, and Màisgeir due south of Gometra. These islands, along with Ulva itself, form part of the Loch na Keal National Scenic Area, one of the forty national scenic areas in Scotland, which are defined so as to identify areas of exceptional scenery and to ensure its protection from inappropriate development.
Geology
right|thumb|Basalt cliffs, near Dùn Bhioramuill on south coast
right|thumb|Topography of Ulva and surrounding area
Ulva's interior is moorland, while the spectacular geological formations of the south coast, have been somewhat overshadowed by those of its neighbour Staffa. Nonetheless, they are still renowned in their own right. The lava flows are known as the "Staffa Magma Type member" and can also be seen on Mull at Carsaig, Ardtum, and near Tobermory on its east coast. They are particularly rich in silica. These were formed when the cooling surface of the mass of hot lava cracked in a hexagonal pattern in a similar way to drying mud cracking as it shrinks, and these cracks gradually extended down into the mass of lava as it cooled and shrank to form the columns which were subsequently exposed by erosion.
Much more recently, Ulva was subjected to glaciation, which dug out the fjords/sea lochs on its north and south east sides – Loch Tuath (meaning simply "north loch") and Loch na Keal, as well as softening some of its sharper edges.
The Hebridean coastline has been subject to significant post-glacial changes in sea level and the area is rising up at about per annum as isostatic equilibrium is regained. The relative drop in sea-level has left the highest raised sea cave in the British Isles on Ulva at A' Chrannag. At some point, Ulva was probably a west pointing headland of Mull, connected to Gometra and Eilean Dioghlum off the latter's west coast.
Etymology
The derivation of "Ulva" is not certain, but is probably from the Old Norse for "wolf isle". Samuel Johnson deduced that it was probably not Gaelic in origin:
The English name "Ulva" is from the Scottish Gaelic, Ulbha, but this may have been corruption of Old Norse. It is debatable whether the Norse root Ulfr refers to an individual's name, or to the animal itself (possibly because of the shape of the island). The island's official website and guide book claims -
Lachlan Macquarie
right|thumb|upright|[[Lachlan Macquarie, "Father of Australia" was born on Ulva.]]
thumb|Macquarie Mausoleum on Mull
Lachlan Macquarie was born on Ulva on 31 January 1762. He is sometimes referred to as "Father of Australia".
In 1787, Macquarie came back to Mull and Ulva, to try to recruit men for the British army. Few Ulbhachs had any interest, and he deemed them "ungrateful":
Whilst in India, Macquarie sent significant amounts of money back to support kith and kin in Ulva and the Highlands.
19th century
By the early 19th century, potatoes were a major staple of the island, and Ulva exported them. At the turn of the 19th century, the kelp industry supported a large amount of the population. It was seasonal work, with collection taking place in the months of May, June and July, when it was considered possible to dry it outdoors. The dried kelp would usually then be burnt, and the ash used to produce various products, including fertiliser (mostly soda ash) and iodine as well as glass and soap. The ruined kiln on the south shore may have been used for this. Between 1817 and 1828, no less than 256 tonnes of kelp were collected in Ulva. Kelpers collected on average, a wage of two shillings a week, and a stone of wheat. In 1841, the population of Ulva and Gometra was 859, but by 1848 this had plummeted to 150 thanks to a combination of the Highland potato famine
Fletcher also claimed that Clark bullied the sick and the elderly: "In another case, there was a very sick woman... Notwithstanding the critical condition of the woman, he [F. W. Clark] had the roof taken down to a small bit over the woman's bed." but by 2011 it had decreased again to 11.
The Clarks owned the island for the best part of a century, selling it in 1945 to Edith, Lady Congleton, with her daughter Jean Howard then owning it, and her grandson James Howard as estate manager. Under the Howards, the population fluctuated, rather than falling continuously as it had under the Clarks.
In 1950, Queen Elizabeth and the royal yacht, Britannia visited.
Infrastructure and economy
right|thumb|A' Chrannag dam, which provides Ulva island with much of its drinking water
None of the island's roads is tarmacked or numbered, due to the low population, and there are no fewer than six fords on the length of the southern road.
A ferry sails from Ulva to the hamlet of Ulva Ferry on Mull, on request. Ulva Primary School is in fact on Mull at Ulva Ferry. There are ruined school buildings still to be seen at Glac na Gallan and Fearann Àrd-àirigh.
Ulva's main industry now is tourism. Other industries on the island include sheep and cattle farming, and fish farming (salmon at Soriby Bay). which was subsequently backed by 63.9% of voters in a poll ordered by the Scottish government, with residents of Ulva and part of Mull eligible to vote.
Subsequently, the government had stopped the attempt to sell Ulva on the open market. A fundraising appeal was launched and in March 2018 the Scottish Land Fund pledged £4.4 million towards a community buyout. John Watt, the chair of the Fund, stated that it was a "momentous day" for local residents. "I wish them every success as they go on to raise the remaining funding that will allow them to turn their dreams into reality." The buyout was completed on 21 June 2018. <blockquote>"The community company raised £4.4m from the Scottish Land Fund to buy Ulva from owner Jamie Howard, whose family had owned the island for 70 years. The total purchase cost £4.65m with a global fundraising effort helping to secure the balance".</blockquote>
Re-development master plan
By 21 June 2018, the sale of the island had been concluded. The subsequent master plan for the island involves making improvements, increasing the population and returning farming to Ulva. More specifically, the residents were "hoping to create jobs here, build new affordable housing and tempt young Scots to make it their home". Some of the ideas discussed in spring 2018 included opening a campsite, hostel and mini-hotel and to commence oyster farming. Roughly 5,000 people visited the island each summer. In February 2019, repairs to the slipway and the connecting pier on Mull were completed, beneficial for both ferry passengers and fisherman working out of the Sound. The project was funded by Marine Scotland.
Restoration of the oldest blackhouse on the island was being completed in October 2019; it is the one closest to the ferry dock. The building is known as Sheila's cottage, since it was the home of dairy maid Sheila MacFadgen from 1911 to the 1950s, the last resident of the row of cottages. This was the second significant step in the Ulva master plan.
At that time, Wendy Reid, Ulva's development manager, said that the hope was for the population to increase to 20 by 2024 and to 50 in the future. To help attract new residents, six houses were scheduled for renovation, including three that were vacant. By late 2019, news suggested that the population could "soar by 6,000%" as a result of the campaign to encourage people to move to the island. Reid said that the goal was to attract people of any background, but who would benefit the community.
In May 2021, the island announced a drive to replace petrol and diesel-engined quad bikes with all electric vehicles, and the start of work to restore three tenanted homes and three vacant properties on the island.
Hotel redevelopment and tourism increase
The Boathouse restaurant opened near the ferry landing in 2007 and specialises in seafood and home baking. A hostel opened in 2023, and there are two bothies with no electricity, Occasional visitors (usually not breeding) include - house martins, Leach's storm petrel, corncrakes (which are rare in the British Isles), peregrine falcons and spotted flycatchers. Whales occasionally get beached on the island, more recent examples including 1966 (pilot), 1987 (pilot) and 1991 (two sperm whales). Johnson wrote:
In Tales of a Grandfather, Scott tells the story of "Alan-a-Sop". In his youth, Alan-a-Sop was treated badly by his stepfather, one Maclean of Torloisk. He grew up to be a pirate and eventually took a bloody revenge on Torloisk with the help of MacQuarrie of Ulva.
Other
A piper named MacArthur set up a famous piping school on Ulva, possibly in the 17th century. He himself was trained by the great MacCrimmon dynasty of Skye, whose piping skills were legendary in Gaeldom. was an occasional visitor to the island. He wrote a number of short stories, non-fiction and a novella. He came from Mull, and was a distant relative of the politician of the same name and Neil MacCormick Although the main characters of the book are a fox (tod) and a badger (brock), neither species can be found on Ulva.
Structures
right|thumb|The small church at Ardalum, designed by [[Thomas Telford]]
Many structures on Ulva are in ruins, such as the former water mill between Ormaig and Cragaig, and if not in ruins, they have been incorporated into other buildings, e.g. Bracadale Steadings, which includes bits of the old Ulva House which Boswell and Johnson stayed in.
Ulva Church
In the early 19th century, an unflattering report stated:
"No district was more deficient in the means of religious instruction than Ulva" and that "Divine service was little frequented in winter."
A small church was built at Ardalum between 1827 and 1828. It cost £1,500 and was designed by Thomas Telford. It was restored in 1921. (The island was sold to the residents in 1998 however, and the building is now owned by that small group.) It is claimed that in 1847 (Statistical Account), everyone on the island attended services in it including one Roman Catholic and one atheist. Dr Johnson was probably speaking of the old church at Cille Mhic Eòghainn when he said: "Ulva was not neglected by the piety of ardent times: it has still to show what was once a church." Ulva Church is dedicated to St Eòghann of Ardstraw, possibly the same person.
The last resident minister, Rev. MacKenzie left in 1929. near Ormaig has a more gruesome story attached to it. Cairistiona accused, probably falsely, her sister of stealing a large hunk of cheese, and tried to extract a confession from her, by lowering her off a cliff with a plaid tied round her neck. The plaid slipped, and ended up strangling her sister, which she had never intended to do. Wracked with remorse, she confessed to the accident, but this was not enough for the islanders, who decided to drown her, by throwing her in a sack and laying her on the rock, which still bears her name.