Tabasco, officially the Free and Sovereign State of Tabasco, is one of the 32 federal entities of Mexico. It is divided into 17 municipalities and its capital city is Villahermosa.
It is located in southeast Mexico and is bordered by the states of Campeche to the northeast, Veracruz to the west, and Chiapas to the south and the Petén department of Guatemala to the southeast. It has a coastline to the north with the Gulf of Mexico. Most of the state is covered in rainforest as, unlike most other areas of Mexico, it has plentiful rainfall year-round. The state is also home to La Venta, the major site of the Olmec civilization, considered to be the origin of later Mesoamerican cultures. It produces significant quantities of petroleum and natural gas.
Geography
The state is located in the southeast of Mexico, bordering the states of Campeche, Chiapas, and Veracruz, with the Gulf of Mexico to the north and the country of Guatemala to the south and east. The state covers , which is 1.3 percent of Mexico's total. The northwestern portion is on the coastal plain of the Gulf of Mexico with the south and east as part of the mountain chain that extends into northern Chiapas. It is divided into seventeen municipalities. There are 36 communities designated as urban, with about 3,000 smaller towns and villages. 185 are classified as "regional development centers". Tabasco has seventeen municipalities: Balancán, Cárdenas, Centla, Centro (Villahermosa), Comalcalco, Cunduacán, Emiliano Zapata, Huimanguillo, Jalapa, Jalpa de Méndez, Jonuta, Macuspana, Nacajuca, Paraíso, Tacotalpa, Teapa and Tenosique.
thumb|left|Regions of Tabasco
In 1994, the state was officially divided into two regions and five sub-regions for socioeconomic development and geographic documentation. The two major regions are called the Grijalva and the Usumacinta. The Grijalva Region is named after the river on which most of the municipalities here are dependent. It is the smaller of the two regions with a territory of or 48.94 percent of the state's territory; however, it contains most of Tabasco's urban population as well as of its socioeconomic and political activity. It is divided into three sub-regions called Chontalpa, Centro and Sierra; it includes the municipalities of Huimanguillo, Cárdenas, Comalcalco, Cunduacán, Paraíso, Jalpa de Méndez, Nacajuca, Centro, Jalapa, Teapa and Tacotalpa. The Usumacinta Region is named after the main river on which the Centla, Jonuta, Emiliano Zapata, Balancán and Tenosique municipalities depend. It is divided into the Pantanos and Ríos subregions, which are both more rural than the Grijalva Region.
The environment of the state consists of extensive low-lying floodplains, mountains and valleys. Most of the territory is covered with tropical rainforest and wetlands. There are also areas with savanna, beaches and mangrove forests. Much of the rainforest has suffered degradation due to over-logging and conversion of territory into farmland. The east is formed of low humid plains formed by sediment deposited by a number of rivers. In the Chontalpa zone and in parts of the municipalities of Centla and Jonuta, there are swampy depressions extremely vulnerable to flooding from both riverflow and from excessive rainfall. Flooding is a frequent occurrence, especially in September and November.
The state has of state protected lands such as the Agua Blanca waterfalls and the Sierra State Park in Teapa. The caves are classified as a natural monument with . The Centla Biosphere Reserve covers an area of . The Yumká Park and Laguna de las Ilusiones Ecological Reserves have . The Laguna de la Lima Reserve has . The Chontalpa Ecological Park has . The Laguna del Camarón Ecological Park has .
The Olmec civilization dominated much of what is now Tabasco 3,000 years ago, reaching a height around 800 BC. It was the oldest Mesoamerican culture, dominating what are now the states of Mexico, Guerrero, Oaxaca, Veracruz and Tabasco as well as parts of Central America, and is considered the founding culture for all of Mesoamerica. The main Olmec site in Tabasco is La Venta. The site covers an area of surrounded by swamps and marshes linked to the Tonalá River, from the Gulf of Mexico. Around 300 AD, the Mayans began to dominate part of the state. Mayan sites include Comalcalco, Pomoná, El Tortuguero and Jonuta (Prehispanic). The Mayans in Tabasco reached their peak between the 6th and 7th centuries.
In the early 16th century, the territory of Tabasco was home to a number of relatively small polities. The Chontal Maya were the predominant ethnicity, and within Tabasco were divided into the provinces of Potonchán, Cupilco (located near Comalcalco), Zahuatan-Chilapa in the south (located near Jalapa and Macuspana), and Ixtapa-Usumacinta in the east (located near Tenosique). Of these, Potonchan was the most populous, and is sometimes considered to have been the capital of a kingdom known as Tabasco. The western coastal portion of the state was known as Ahualulco or Yahualulco and was inhabited by a mix of Nahuas and Popolucas (the latter being related to the Zoque people, though the Nahuas formed the political elite. However, the most important Nahua town was Cimatan, located near modern Cárdenas). Cimatan was the capital of a lordship that ruled over several Zoque towns to the south. Tabasco, in particular the region around Comalcalco and Villahermosa, was one of the major cacao-producing regions in late postclassic Mesoamerica, alongside Soconusco and certain parts of Central America.
The territory of Tabasco, together with portions of the neighboring states of Veracruz and Campeche, was a hotspot for regional trade, as the numerous rivers and lagoons made transportation by canoe very efficient. Local rulers, being connected by trade to many different regional powers, frequently aimed to balance their foreign relations in order to maximize their commercial profits. Many rulers were themselves successful merchants, rather than the hereditary monarchs typical elsewhere in Mesoamerica. The region had a reputation for being open-minded towards foreigners and patronizing the arts.
Colonial era
left|thumb|The entrance of [[Hernán Cortés into the city of Tabasco]]
The first contact with the Spanish came in 1518 when an expedition headed by Captain Juan de Grijalva disembarked at the mouth of the river that now bears his name. Hernán Cortés came the following year and fought the natives here at the Battle of Centla. As conqueror, Cortés received twenty female slaves, one of whom was La Malinche.
Despite the early conquest and the foundation of Santa María de la Victoria (today Frontera), the territory was not fully subjugated because of the climate, terrain and lack of minerals.
The Spanish did not begin to pacify the area until the second half of the 16th century, when Santa María de la Victoria was secured, slightly inland from the original Frontera location. However, in the meantime, English pirates had taken possession of the nearby Isla del Carmen and other points in the Gulf for piracy. Santa María de la Victoria was attacked and sacked, forcing the settlement to move inland in 1598 to San Juan Bautista (today Villahermosa), renamed Villa Hermosa by the Spanish Crown, which gave it the oldest coat of arms on the American mainland, today the seal of the state of Tabasco. At the end of the war in 1821, Tabasco became one of the first fourteen states under the 1824 Constitution. The first state constitution was ratified in 1825. In 1883, the state was divided into seventeen municipalities.
Political instability in the state and an outbreak of cholera forced Tabasco to rejoin the federation. In 1836, a group of Conservatives took control of the federal government, but Tabasco Liberals decided to rebel against this government until they were defeated.
thumb|Image of the U.S. invasion of Villahermosa
During the Mexican–American War, troops under Matthew C. Perry arrived in Tabasco in 1846. Other ships arrived soon after and took possession of the port of Frontera. On their first attempt to take Villahermosa upriver, they failed. The second attempt bombarded the city before successfully taking it. However, the Tabascans formed guerrilla groups and this along with the inhospitable climate forced the U.S. military to withdraw soon after. There were several insurrections against this government such as the one headed by Andrés Sánchez Magallanes in 1863. He raised a small army from various parts of the state and attacked the imperial army barracks in Comalcalco, then moved on to Villahermosa in November 1863. Here they encountered imperialist troops at what is now called the , where the insurgents won, expelling the French from the state.
The Porfirio Díaz period from the 1880s to 1910 was free from political violence and allowed the state to build infrastructure, but only slowly owing to its isolation. The capital, heavily damaged by decades of war, was reconstructed, with many old buildings torn down to make way for new ones. In 1879, the Instituto Juárez was inaugurated. In 1881, telegraph service connected Villahermosa with Mexico City. The capital received electricity in 1890, with the new state government palace opened in 1894 and the first bank in 1901. In 1879, the first institute of higher education, the Instituto Juárez, was opened. During this time period, a woman by the name of Salomé Marín Virgilio founded schools in Balancán to teach workers to read and write along with liberal political ideas. Her work would later inspire José María Pino Suárez.
Another important episode in the history of the state was the governorship of Tomás Garrido Canabal after the end of the Revolution. He was elected in 1922, allied with Mexican presidents Álvaro Obregón and later Plutarco Elías Calles. He implemented an ambitious socialist program, organizing unions and consolidating power though his Radical Socialist Party (Partido Socialista Radical). He reestablished the state's teachers’ college and established a system of rural schools. Livestock-raising increased and general economic levels rose. He prohibited the production and sale of alcoholic beverages in the state. An atheist, he persecuted the Catholic Church, destroying various churches including the Tabasco Cathedral. Events relating to this were portrayed in the novel The Power and the Glory by Graham Greene. He organized "cultural assemblies with the aim of persuading people away from religion, sometimes burning images of saints. He even forbade the use of crosses on graves and changed the names of towns and ranches to rid them of religious references. Unlike other parts of the country, there was little resistance against this repression of the church and the success of Garrido's dissuasion left a vacuum, which was later filled by missionaries from Protestant and Evangelical groups." His tenure as governor ended in 1935, when he was appointed the federal Secretary of Agriculture and he appointed to take over. Opponents of Garrido declared this a violation of due process and held their own elections. Supporters of Garrido tried to stop the election, resulting in shooting and twelve dead.
In the 1950s, Carlos A. Madrazo became governor; he promoted large public works, agricultural and industrial projects, and initiated exploration for petroleum. The friction between the populace and the government over oil and other issues led to some political restructuring in the state. This was accompanied with general dissatisfaction with the ruling party, the PRI, nationwide. Reforms to decentralize power away from Villahermosa were undertaken but in the 1990s, political instability remained with farmers, ranchers and others continuing to complain about how PEMEX was affecting their economic activities. In urban areas running water, sewerage and electricity is available to over ninety percent of the population; however, in rural areas, running water reaches about forty percent, sewerage under seventy percent and electricity under 85 percent.
The Cacao route consists of various cacao haciendas, where guides give lessons on how the plant is cultivated and the cacao bean is harvested, then processed into chocolate. It also includes a visit to the Comalcalco archeological site. In Jalpa de Méndez, the main attractions are its gourd handcrafts, the San Remo cigar factory, the La Encantada Turtle Farm and the Pomposú Juliva wetlands on the Mezcalapa River. In Comalcalco, attractions include the Comalcalco archeological site, cacao haciendas such as La Luz with its cacao museum, Jesús María, La Chonita and Cholula. Paraíso is a small port with beaches and some resort facilities.
thumb|left|Rafting in Tenosique
The river route is based in the interior portion of the state, between the Grijalva and Usumacinta Rivers. This is an ecotourism route with activities such as canopy climbing, rafting and rappelling. There is also an option to visit the Ponomá archeological site.
thumb|Lago Popalillo
The wetlands route emphasizes flora and fauna both on land and on the water.
thumb|Opening of the Coconá Caverns
The mountain adventure route is in the highlands of the state with its forests, sulphurate waters and caves, centered on the town of Tapijulapa, which is noted for its handcrafts of wood and wicker.
The Olmec Zoque route encompasses the municipalities of Cardenas and Huimanguillo. Cardenas is near the ocean with various attractions. One is the fishing village of Villa Sánchez Magallenes. Huimanguillo has archeological sites and a number of natural attractions. The best known is La Venta, an Olmec site, but another important one is Malpasito, which belongs to the Zoque culture. In addition, there are areas of tropical rainforest, waterfalls, petroglyphs and lakes.
The Biji Yokot’an route centers on the municipality of Nacajuca. It features the crafts of the area such as decorated containers made from gourds, its cuisine, especially river fish, the Chontal people of the area and the river boardwalk.
<div align=center>
<!-- galería de mapas -->
{| class="toc" cellpadding=0 cellspacing=2 width=800px style="float:center; margin: 0.5em 0.5em 0.5em 1em; padding: 0.5e"
|colspan=5 style="background:#4b6800; color:white; font-size:120%" align=center|Ecological and adventure tourism in Tabasco
|-
|align=center valign=center bgcolor="#f9f9f9"|125px
|align=center valign=center bgcolor="#f9f9f9"|125px
|align=center valign=center bgcolor="#f9f9f9"|
|align=center valign=center bgcolor="#f9f9f9"|125px
|align=center valign=center bgcolor="#f9f9f9"|110px
|-
|style="background:#e5ebf2;" align=center|Pantanos de Centla
|style="background:#e5ebf2;" align=center|Desarrollo Ecoturístico "Kolem-Jaa"
|style="background:#e5ebf2;" align=center|Cascadas de Aguas Blancas
|style="background:#e5ebf2;" align=center|Puerto Ceiba
|style="background:#e5ebf2;" align=center|Cañón del Usumacinta
|-
|align=center valign=center bgcolor="#f9f9f9"|120px
|align=center valign=center bgcolor="#f9f9f9"|120px
|align=center valign=center bgcolor="#f9f9f9"|120px
|align=center valign=center bgcolor="#f9f9f9"|120px
|align=center valign=center bgcolor="#f9f9f9"|120px
|-
|style="background:#e5ebf2;" align=center|Grutas del Coconá
|style="background:#e5ebf2;" align=center|Sierra de Tabasco
|style="background:#e5ebf2;" align=center|Rápidos de San José-Desempeño
|style="background:#e5ebf2;" align=center|El Bellote
|style="background:#e5ebf2;" align=center|Tapijulapa
|-
|}
</div>
