Pseudofolliculitis barbae (PFB) is a type of irritant folliculitis that commonly affects people who have curly or thick facial hair. It occurs when hair curls back into the skin after shaving, causing inflammation, redness, and bumps. This can lead to ingrown hairs, scarring, and skin discoloration. PFB can be treated with various methods, including changing shaving habits, using topical creams or ointments, and undergoing laser hair removal. Prevention measures include proper shaving techniques, using sharp razors, and avoiding too close a shave.

It was first described in 1956.

Signs and symptoms

Razor burn is a lesser condition caused by shaving, characterized by mild to moderate redness and irritation on the surface of the skin. Unlike PFB, it is usually transient, and there is no infection involved.

There is also a condition called folliculitis barbae. The difference between the two is the cause of the inflammation in the hair follicles. Where folliculitis barbae is caused by viral or bacterial infections, pseudofolliculitis is created by irritation from shaving and ingrown hairs.

Pseudofolliculitis nuchae, a related condition, occurs on the back of the neck, often along the posterior hairline when curved hairs are cut short and allowed to grow back into the skin. Left untreated, this can develop into acne keloidalis nuchae, a condition in which hard, dark keloid-like bumps form on the neck. Both occur frequently in black men in the military. It is so common in the U.S. military that the services have protocols for its management.

Cause

Pseudofolliculitis barbae (PFB) is most common on the face, but it can also happen on other parts of the body where hair is shaved or plucked, especially areas where hair is curly and the skin is sensitive, such as genital shaving (more properly termed pseudofolliculitis pubis or PFP).

After a hair has been shaved, it begins to grow back. Curly hair tends to curl into the skin instead of straight out of the follicle, leading to an inflammation reaction. PFB can make the skin look itchy and red, and in some cases, it can even look like pimples. These inflamed papules or pustules can form, especially if the area becomes infected.

This is especially a problem for some men who have naturally coarse or tightly curling thick hair. Curly hair increases the likelihood of PFB by a factor of 50.

Pseudofolliculitis barbae can further be divided into two types of ingrown hairs: transfollicular and extrafollicular. The extrafollicular hair is a hair that has exited the follicle and reentered the skin. The transfollicular hair never exits the follicle, but because of its naturally curly nature curls back into the follicle, causing fluid build-up and irritation. This sequence change leads to an amino acid substitution in the highly conserved alpha helix initiation motif of the K6hf rod domain. Carriers of the A12T polymorphism are six times more likely to develop PFB compared with people homozygous for the wild-type K6hf sequence. Tretinoin is a potent treatment that helps even out any scarring after a few months. It is added as a nightly application of tretinoin cream 0.05–0.1% to the beard skin while the beard is growing out. Tea tree oil, witch hazel, and hydrocortisone are also noted as possible treatments and remedies for razor bumps.

Long-term therapies

Permanent removal of the hair follicle is the only definitive treatment for PFB. Laser therapies utilize melanin-selective photothermolysis to heat up hair shafts and damage follicular stem cells, which over time impairs hair growth. Common laser systems used to treat PFC are pulsed alexandrite (755 nm), diode (800–810 nm) and Nd:YAG (1064 nm) lasers. Nd: YAG lasers are indicated for darker-pigmented individuals. Laser therapy for PFC typically requires at least six treatments spaced 4–6 weeks apart.