thumb|Southern and eastern entrances of Portland Harbour looking northeast from the [[Isle of Portland across Balaclava Bay. The dark colour of the water between the two breakwaters in the foreground indicates the position of the scuttled battleship .]]

thumb|The western side of the Harbour with [[Chesil Beach, Lyme Bay and the Fleet Lagoon in the background.]]

Portland Harbour is beside the Isle of Portland, Dorset, on the south coast of England. Construction of the harbour began in 1849; when completed in 1872, its surface area made it the largest human-made harbour in the world, and it remains one of the largest in the world today. It is naturally sheltered by Portland to the south, Chesil Beach to the west and mainland Dorset to the north. It consists of four breakwaters: two southern and two northern. These have a total length of and enclose approximately of water.

Portland Harbour was built by the Admiralty as a facility for the Royal Navy (though access was also available to merchant ships); Prompted by the expansion of the French naval port of Cherbourg, just across the English Channel, the Royal Navy established a base at Portland in 1845; a scheme for the harbour to be transformed into a refuge had been granted parliamentary approval the year before. Portland was the first naval anchorage specifically designed for the new steam navy. Similar harbours of refuge would be built at Alderney, Dover, Holyhead, and later (in response to the increased naval threat from Germany) at Peterhead.

thumb|right|Dockyard Offices (left), built (as the Engineer's Office) by John Coode in 1848, extended to the west in 1910.

Construction of the two breakwaters began in 1849 when HRH Prince Albert laid the foundation stone on 25 July. Designed by engineer James Meadows Rendel, the work was carried out under civil engineer John Towlerton Leather, with Rendel as engineer in chief (until his death in 1856), and John Coode as resident engineer. During 1848, HM Prison Portland was established to provide convict labour to quarry the stone needed to construct the breakwaters and the harbour defences. Known as the Admiralty Quarries, they provided 10,000 tons of stone per week. The breakwaters were declared complete by HRH Edward the Prince of Wales on 10 August 1872. A major government project, the construction work had become Dorset's greatest tourist attraction of its time.

Construction of harbour defences

The initial southern breakwaters were built between 1849 and 1872; meanwhile, various defences were created to defend the harbour. The Verne Citadel, designed by Captain Crosman R.E., was built at Verne Hill between 1860 and 1881: the 56 acre (23 ha) fortress was designed for 1000 troops and had gun emplacements facing seawards on three sides. Below the eastern side of the citadel, East Weare Battery was built during the 1860s, along with the detention barracks East Weare Camp. On the end of the inner breakwater was the Inner Pierhead Fort, and on the outer breakwater the circular Breakwater Fort. On Weymouth's side of the harbour, the Nothe Fort was built at the end of the Nothe Peninsula, and completed in 1872. In 1892, the Verne High Angle Battery was built in a disused quarry near the Verne Citadel, but was decommissioned in 1906.

As part of further defence works against the threat of torpedo attack, the harbour's two northern breakwaters were built between 1893 and 1906. In 1902, additional defences were constructed, including Upton Fort at Osmington and Blacknor Fort on the western side of Portland. By 1903, the East Weares Rifle Range served the navy and other military on the eastern side of the island. In 1905, the Portland Breakwater Lighthouse was erected on the southern end of northeast breakwater, where it continues to operate today.

Establishment of Royal Navy at Portland

thumb|right|Coaling shed (1856–60) on the inner breakwater. Coal was stored on the first floor and then deployed in railway wagons to waiting vessels moored along the length of the breakwater.

The harbour was envisaged primarily as a coaling station for the Royal Navy, being conveniently equidistant from the Royal Navy's two principal bases at Portsmouth and Devonport; During the 20th century the harbour increasingly became a naval oiling depot and, beginning in the early 1900s, the tidal creek the Mere began to be filled in for a vast tank farm. In the early years of the 20th century it served as base for the Navy's first Torpedo Boat Destroyers. Onshore amenities included a range of storehouses, workshops and office buildings.

Support facilities

Support facilities for the fleet were also added over time, including a canteen and recreation ground (opened in 1903).

Research facilities

The development of both the torpedo and the submarine led to Portland Harbour becoming a centre for research into underwater warfare, beginning with the establishment of Whitehead Torpedo Works at Wyke Regis in 1891. A purpose-built pier projecting into the harbour from the factory was used for torpedo testing and practice firing. The factory closed in 1997 and was cleared to make way for a housing development named Whitehead Drive, which includes a memorial stone and plaque to commemorate the factory.

Training facilities

In 1862 was moored at Portland to serve as a training ship for naval cadets. She was replaced by in 1866 (following Britannias relocation to Dartmouth). Boscawen was herself replaced in 1873 by HMS Trafalgar, which took on the same name. In 1882 an onshore training complex was built, above the dockyard on Portland Bill. As the Royal Navy grew in size towards the end of the 19th century, additional accommodation was required for boys' training, which saw the arrival of in 1898 and in 1904; they were named Boscawen II and Boscawen III respectively. The training establishment closed in 1906; while Boscawen (ex-Trafalgar) was sold, Boscawen II and Boscawen III were transferred to Harwich and subsequently attached to .

World War I to World War II (1914–1945)

The increasing threat of conflict with Germany before the Great War erupted saw the arrival of the Dreadnoughts in Portland, while seaplanes began to operate in Portland's skies. King George V watched aerial displays from the royal yacht in the harbour in May 1912. This occasion saw a biplane demonstrate the first British flight from a moving ship, and afterwards the king took the first ever royal trip in a submarine.

In 1914, the Grand Fleet assembled in Portland Harbour before sailing to Scapa Flow.

Anti-submarine School and ASDIC Research & Development

In 1917 the RNAS seaplane base at Portland was commissioned as . Under its command, a 'listening school' was established to help develop hydrophone underwater listening devices and other anti-submarine measures, and to train personnel in their use. The school initially operated from temporary accommodation in Weymouth, before moving in 1918 to a site at East Weare, just south of the Dockyard. Meanwhile, the experimental work was carried out within the dockyard itself: namely in a pair of sheds on the inner breakwater and in what had been the Admiralty Slaughter Houses (just to the south, at Balaclava Bay), which were swiftly converted into workshops. The dockyard swimming pool was also put to use, as a testing tank.

Sarepta was decommissioned in December 1919, but the anti-submarine work continued, overseen from the cruiser , which became lead ship of a small anti-submarine flotilla, made up of R-class destroyers and P-class patrol boats, fitted with ASDIC for training and for experimental testing.

In 1924, however, Portland's Anti-Submarine School (having been consolidated with similar units from and HM Signal School, Portsmouth) was itself commissioned as HMS Osprey, becoming an independent shore command. ( initially served as the depot ship, Its facilities included laboratories and workshops, a large water tank for conducting experiments and an inshore testing site for trials of ASDIC on the inner breakwater (by the late 1930s over 200 civilians were employed in Ospreys ASDIC Research and Development Unit (ARDU)). In July 1940, the anti-aircraft ship was attacked by Stuka dive-bombers and sank in the harbour. The second of only two Victoria Crosses awarded for action in the United Kingdom was posthumously bestowed on Jack Foreman Mantle, who died at his post on the ship. Although mortally wounded he continued to fire his gun against the attackers until he died. Mantle is buried in Portland's Royal Naval Cemetery, which overlooks the harbour. In 1940–41, the Portland Naval Communication Headquarters was constructed, built into the hillside at the rear of the dockyard.

In January 1941 Osprey moved out of Portland to the relative safety of Dunoon on the west coast of Scotland; the experimental section operated as a sub-division of Osprey, known as HM Anti-Submarine Experimental Establishment, in Fairlie, North Ayrshire. In the meantime the Portland was redesignated to serve as a Coastal Forces base, commissioned under the name HMS Attack.

During both World Wars I and II, the bay was filled with neutral ships at anchor waiting to be searched for materials that might be useful to the enemy. The remaining two units now act as a wind-break, helping ships berth at Queen's Pier in the harbour.

HMS Osprey

In 1946, the anti-submarine school returned to Portland, and re-established itself at East Weare. In 1948 the administrative command of HMS Osprey was extended to cover the Naval Base as a whole.

Admiralty Underwater Weapons Establishment

HM A/S Experimental Establishment also returned to Portland in 1946. Over the next few years its headquarters on Balaclava Bay were rebuilt and extended, and it was again renamed as HM Underwater Detection Establishment (HMUDE).

Portland Dockyard

In February 1958 it was announced in Parliament by the First Lord of the Admiralty that Portland Dockyard was to close the following year (though the naval base would be retained). At the time, the Dockyard employed 'some 1,600 industrial and non-industrial staff'. From 1958, the base's main occupation was Flag Officer Sea Training, which was a major success, and the harbour soon became the world's premier work-up and training base. Aside from the training of Royal Navy ships, many ships of NATO countries also trained and frequented at the harbour. In 1984, two large accommodation blocks, totalling £25-30 million, were built in Castletown as barracks for Royal Navy personnel, along with a sports centre.

RNAS Portland

With the advent of the helicopter and its importance as an anti-submarine weapon, an airfield was formed following World War II. In 1946, Hoverfly R-4Bs began operating from the base's playing fields, which were transformed into a landing ground. In 1959, RNAS Portland was officially established as part of HMS Osprey, It went on to become the largest naval helicopter airfield in Europe.

Royal Navy operations ceased on 21 July 1995 and the harbour was sold on 29 March 1996. FOST was relocated to Devonport.

, the harbour is the fourth largest human-made port in the world, after the Port of Jebel Ali in Dubai, Ras Laffan Harbour in Qatar and Cherbourg Harbour in France. The breakwaters lead to a restricted water exchange; this in turn leads to elevated water temperatures. Thus several marine species inhabit the harbour beyond the typical northern limits of their range. The harbour is designated as EU shellfish water and supports an important shellfish fishery and a marine ecosystem of high importance for biodiversity.

In April 2023, the Government of the United Kingdom announced highly controversial plans to moor the Bibby Stockholm, on charter from Bibby Marine, at the port to accommodate 500 asylum seekers.

Recreation

The harbour is a popular location for Kiteboarding, wind surfing, wreck diving and sailing. Weymouth and Portland National Sailing Academy which hosted sailing events in the 2012 Olympic Games, is located on the south-western shore of the harbour. The Royal Yachting Association had expressed interest in securing a suitable site locally for a number of decades, in order to make use of the harbour's natural advantages. However the opportunity did not develop until the end of the 20th century, with the withdrawal of the Royal Navy. The academy was established as a not-for-profit company in 1999, and originally operated from various disused military buildings and facilities. In 2003 the academy was able to start redevelopment of the site. In 2005 WPNSA was selected to host the sailing events at the 2012 Olympic and Paralympic Games. Additionally Osprey Quay became an 80 acres regeneration project commissioned by South West Regional Development Agency in 2001. By 2012 Osprey Quay had been transformed with huge investment, offering over 11 hectares, a total of 60,000 square metres of business space.

In October 2007 work commenced on a new marina and recreational boating facility. Some 250,000 tonnes of Portland stone was used in creating the 875m breakwater and associated reclaimed land. This facility was open by Prince Philip, Duke of Edinburgh in April 2009 and is situated directly adjacent to the National Sailing Academy. Apart from the usual freshwater, fuel, shore power and pump-out facilities the marina also has a bar/restaurant, 15 retail/business units and 5 larger commercial units.

In addition to , there are other dive wrecks around the harbour:

  • on the inside of the harbour, against a breakwater:
  • Countess of Erme – barge 30 metres north of the Eastern Ship Channel
  • the Spaniard – barge 50 metres south-west of the Chequered Fort
  • a World War II landing craft and a Bombardon Unit, a harbour device intended for the D-Day beaches in Normandy, 50 metres north east of the curve of the south break water
  • in "open" water inside the harbour:
  • a Sea Vixen Royal Navy aircraft – a diver training carcass between Ferrybridge and the helicopter base
  • – an 1850s passenger liner, which served for many years as a troopship and later as a coal or fuel barge in the centre of the harbour

Listed buildings and structures

The harbour and dockyard has various buildings and structures on the National Heritage List.

The inner breakwater, with its jetty, former victualling store and Inner Pierhead Fort, are Grade II Listed. The victualling store was built around 1850.

East Weare Battery was built in the 1860s to protect the harbour. In addition to this, The 'E' section of the battery is Grade II Listed and has become a scheduled monument too. East Weare Camp is Grade II Listed. One of the most dominant of the defence structures is the Portland Breakwater Fort, located on one of the outer breakwaters. It is Grade II Listed.

In 1993, the Dockyard Offices became Grade II Listed. At the end of Castletown village is the former Dockyard Police Station – also Grade II Listed. At the top of the Incline Road is the abandoned Old Engine Shed that once served the cable-operated inclined railway that ran to Castletown through the Navy Dockyard that is now Portland Port. The shed has been Grade II Listed since 2001.

Breakwater defences

Situated across Portland Harbour's four breakwater arms are various defensive structures and related monuments. Many of these are still in existence today, however are derelict and remain unopened to the public. At the Breakwater Fort is a World War II 29 millimetre spigot mortar emplacement, a pillbox, and a battery observation post. Further along the same arm, towards Portland, are two World War II coast artillery searchlights.

On the northeast breakwater, at the southern end, directly opposite the fort, is the Portland Breakwater Lighthouse. The site was also the location of a coastal battery, known as A Pier Head Battery, which opened in 1901 and was armed with two 12-pounder quick-firing (QF) guns for anti-torpedo craft defence. In 1944 emplacements were constructed to replace the 12-pounder guns with 6-pounders. A World War I torpedo station was also located on 'A' Head, using two 18 inch torpedo tubes which were operational from 1915 until 1918. It was put into operation again during World War II. During World War II a petroleum warfare site consisting of four flame throwers were located on 'A' Head. A World War II battery observation post survives.

On the North Eastern Breakwater, within the centre area, is a World War II coastal battery with coast artillery searchlights. Further along the arm is a 29 millimetre spigot mortar emplacement. On the far end of the North Eastern Breakwater, on the Weymouth side, is the site of B Pier Head Battery. The coastal battery opened in 1901 and was armed with two 12-pounder quick-firing (QF) guns for anti-torpedo craft defence. By 1913 the battery's armament included four 12-pounder guns and a 6-inch breech-loading (BL) Mk. VII gun. The battery was decommissioned in 1934. The same site featured a World War I torpedo station. Additionally there is a World War I battery observation post.

The Weymouth end breakwater features the C Pier Head Battery on the southern tip. The arm is known as the Bincleaves Groyne. The battery was opened in 1901 and was armed with two 12-pounder quick-firing (QF) guns for anti-torpedo craft defence. By the First World War the 12-pounder guns had been removed and replaced with a 6-inch breech-loading (BL) Mk. VII gun. The 6-inch gun was removed in 1924 and in 1934 two 12-pounder guns were transferred across from the recently decommissioned B Pier Head. In 1944 emplacements were constructed for two 6-pounder guns, but the guns were not mounted for a number of years. At the C Pier Head Battery a World War II petroleum warfare site was constructed. On site is a World War II 29 millimetre spigot mortar emplacement.

On-shore defences

Aside from the East Weare Battery, and other related constructions, there are a number of defences built within the harbour's dockyard and surrounding area.

During World War II, a number of anti-invasion structures were placed at Balaclava Bay, including an anti boat landing obstacle, and a minefield. A little further south is a coast artillery searchlight. Another coast artillery searchlight was situated further south of this. A number of pillboxes were built around East Weare Battery.

As part of the defence for HMS Osprey, now demolished, a "Yarnold Sanger" pillbox is located on Incline Road, constructed during the Cold War. In addition to this a World War II pillbox, with a possible machine gun post, is located at Upper Osprey.

See also

  • Bincleaves Groyne
  • Port of Portland Police
  • Bibby Stockholm

References

Further reading

  • Dorset; The Royal Navy (illustrated): Stuart Morris, 2011. The Dovecote Press, Wimborne, Dorset:
  • Portland, an Illustrated History: Stuart Morris, 2016. The Dovecote Press, Wimborne, Dorset:
  • Portland (Discover Dorset Series) Stuart Morris, 1998. The Dovecote Press, Wimborne, Dorset: .
  • Isle of Portland Railways: Jackson, Brian L., 1999.
  • Portland, Then and Now: Stuart Morris, 2006. The Dovecote Press, Wimborne, Dorset: .
  • Portland Port
  • Coxswain Edward Palmer, awarded BEM for rescue work following the sinking of HMS Foylebank in Portland Harbour, July 1940