Odenwald

thumb|upright|The Reichenbach felsenmeer in autumn

The Odenwald () is a low mountain range in the German states of Hesse, Bavaria and Baden-Württemberg.

Location

The Odenwald is located between the Upper Rhine Plain with the Bergstraße and the Hessisches Ried (the northeastern section of the Rhine rift) to the west, the Main and the Bauland (a mostly unwooded area with good soils) to the east, the Hanau-Seligenstadt Basin – a subbasin of the Upper Rhine Rift Valley in the Rhine-Main Lowlands – to the north and the Kraichgau to the south. The part south of the Neckar valley is sometimes called the Kleiner Odenwald ("Little Odenwald").

The northern and western Odenwald belong to southern Hesse, with the south stretching into Baden. In the northeast, a small part lies in Lower Franconia in Bavaria.

Geology

thumb|left|[[Felsenmeer near Reichenbach (Lautertal) in winter]]

thumb|left|Characteristic [[sandstone formation near Eberbach]]

The Odenwald, along with other parts of the Central German Uplands, belongs to the Variscan, which more than 300 million years ago in the Carboniferous period ran through great parts of Europe. The cause of this orogeny was the collision of Africa’s and Europe's forerunner continents.

In the Triassic, about 200 million years ago, the land sank again, forming the Germanic Basin in which the metre-thick layers of red sandstone could build up. These were later covered over with layers of muschelkalk from a broad inland sea, then followed by sediments from the Late Triassic (or Keuper). The South German Cuesta Land thus formed.

When the land in the Odenwald was uplifted again about 180 million years ago, more than 100 m of the sedimentary layering, in parts, was eroded away down to the bedrock, as can still be seen in the western Odenwald. The bedrock here is composed of a number of different rocks, among them gneiss, granite, diorite, gabbro in the Frankenstein pluton, and so on. In the eastern Odenwald, the red sandstone is all that is left of the sedimentary mixture. Farther east in the Bauland, the muschelkalk deposits still overlie the Early Triassic layers. Furthermore, in the south near Heidelberg, there is still Zechstein under the Early Triassic deposits.

Roughly 50 to 60 million years ago, volcanoes formed along the great geological faults. Still bearing witness to this time are the Otzberg, the Daumberg and the Katzenbuckel, all extinct volcanoes in the Odenwald. Furthermore, volcanism with acidic rocks has left a legacy of rhyolites near Dossenheim. The Otzberg cataclasite zone as a major tectonic suture separates the two main units of the crystalline basement of the Odenwald.

At roughly the same time, the Central European plate began to tear apart so that the Upper Rhine Rift developed. Even as the Upper Rhine Rift valley still sinks today by just under a millimetre each year, the Odenwald, relatively to that, was uplifted to the height it has today. Along the faults, the small rivers Gersprenz and Weschnitz have, in part, carved their courses.

The Upper Rhine Rift is part of a fracture zone reaching from the Mediterranean Sea to Norway. Right on the edge of the Odenwald, it is roughly 2 500 m deep, but has been filled in to its current height by river and sea sediment, for until about 20 million years ago, the North Sea reached far inland, across the Wetterau Depression into the Rhine Valley.

Geological maps

File:Geologie_Odenwald_(Altherr).jpg|Granite-Gneiss-Odenwald (Altherr, 1999)

File:Geolog._Karte_(Stein)_Odw7.jpg|Granite-Gneiss-Odenwald (Stein, 2001)

File:Profil_Geologie_Odenwald.jpg|Geological profile (from left): Rheinplane, Granite-Odenwald, Gneiss-Odenwald, Redsandstone-Odenwald (Geo-Naturpark)

An eminent geographer of the 16th century, Sebastian Münster, proposed a tribal chief as the name giver (Odtonwald, 821, = Odo's Woods). However, it is not proven whether there actually was a count or duke called Odo (Otto). Finally, Münster's researches do not lead to any result.

Transport and tourism

The Odenwald is known as a leisure destination easily accessible from the urban areas of Mannheim and Frankfurt. It is known for its clean thin air and was once known for its health sanitariums. There are many marked hiking paths through the rural areas. Wild blueberries, strawberries and mushrooms are to be found in the forests.

Roads

The planned extension to the Odenwaldautobahn, that is, the A 45 (Dortmund–Aschaffenburg), was never realized. Nevertheless, all these Bundesstraßen run through the Odenwald:

B 27: Mosbach - Buchen - Tauberbischofsheim
B 38: Reinheim - Groß-Bieberau - Brensbach - Reichelsheim - Fürth - Mörlenbach - Birkenau - Weinheim
B 45: Groß-Umstadt - Höchst - Bad König - Michelstadt - Erbach - Beerfelden - Eberbach
B 47: Bensheim - Lindenfels - Reichelsheim - Michelstadt - Amorbach
B 426: Darmstadt - Mühltal - Ober-Ramstadt - Reinheim - Otzberg - Groß-Umstadt - Höchst - Breuberg - Obernburg
B 460: Heppenheim - Fürth - Mossautal - Hüttenthal

Furthermore, the Nibelungenstraße and the Siegfriedstraße run through the Odenwald, partly along the roads listed above.

Railways

thumb|left|The Himbächel viaduct on the [[Odenwald Railway (Hesse)|Odenwald Railway]]

Odenwald Railway from Darmstadt or Hanau by way of Groß-Umstadt Wiebelsbach to Eberbach, opened in 1882, since December 2005 run with modern Itino trains.
Weschnitz Valley Railway from Weinheim to Fürth, opened in 1895.
Überwald Railway from Mörlenbach by way of Wald-Michelbach to Wahlen, opened in 1901, abandoned in 1996.
Hetzbach–Beerfelden line from Hetzbach to Beerfelden, opened in 1904, abandoned in 1954.
Mosbach–Mudau line (locally known as the Entenmörder – “Duck Murderer”) from Mosbach to Mudau, former narrow-gauge railway, opened in 1905, abandoned in 1973, since 1980 right-of-way has been converted into a cycling path.
Neckar Valley Railway from Heidelberg by way of Eberbach and Mosbach to Bad Friedrichshall-Jagstfeld, opened in 1879.
Neckarelz–Osterburken line, opened in 1866 as part of the Baden Odenwaldbahn
Madonnenland Railway from Seckach to Miltenberg.
Gersprenz Valley Railway from Reinheim to Reichelsheim, opened in 1887 and abandoned by 1963.

Special day trips

thumb|upright|The Margarethenschlucht (gorge)

In Hainstadt, Hesse (a constituent community of Breuberg) in the Mümling valley is a quarry which has been turned into a climbing facility by the Odenwälder Kletterfreunde ('Odenwald Climbing Friends'). There is also a climbing path secured by wire cables. The Odenwald Climbing Friends take care of the paths. The quarry also lies in the DAV's (Deutsche Alpenverein e. V. – a mountain climbing club) Darmstadt Section feeder area.
Beneath the 514 m-high Felsberg and north of Lautertal-Reichenbach is found a Felsenmeer – literally 'cliff sea' – consisting of many weathered stones strewn about the ground which have fallen down from the cliff after having come loose from erosion. The Romans used it as a stone quarry.
In Eberstadt, a constituent community of Buchen, one of southern Germany's most important dripstone caves was discovered in 1971. It is open to the public.
Around the Katzenbuckel runs the Kristall-Lehrpfad ('Crystal Teaching Path'), which graphically shows the volcanic development in the Odenwald.
From Höchst im Odenwald snakes the Obrunnschlucht (gorge) as a romantic fairytale path towards Rimhorn with many model buildings (palaces, castles and mills) along the valley.
The Odenwald is threaded with a network of more than of hiking trails.
Because the roads have so many bends, the Odenwald is a popular outing destination for motorcyclists.
Every year one of the greatest Halloween events in Germany is organized on the Frankenstein Castle (see above). The same name suggests a connection with Mary Shelleys famous filmed novel Frankenstein or The Modern Prometheus. The horror scenery and the comedians dressed up as ghosts and witches spook the huge audience.
Walking and climbing through the Margarethenschlucht (Neckargerach) or the Wolfsschlucht (Wolf's Glen) near Zwingenberg castle (Zwingenberg/Neckar)
Zwingenberg Castle (see above) is the place of an annual castle festival. Carl Maria von Webers romantic opera Der Freischütz (translated as The Marksman or The Freeshooter) is performed at the entrance of the gorge Wolfsschlucht. The plot is based on a German folk legend which the composer discovered in the Gespensterbuch ('Book of Ghosts') during his sojourn in Neuburg Abbey near Heidelberg in 1810. It is believed, that he also was inspired by the Wolf's Glen in a Neckar tributary valley, but there are many places in Germany with the same name. Anyway. In act 2 the protagonist Max meets the diabolic Caspar in the supernatural creepy opera scene Wolfsschlucht to become the best shooter with the assistance of magic power. Now a risky action starts.

thumb|left|Every year the [[Heppenheimer Street Theatre Gassensensationen occupies the marketplace and other corners of the old town.]]

For half a week early July the Heppenheimer (see above) Street theatre named Gassensensationen occupies several places und corners of the old town with presentations for children and adults. The outdoor performances include very popular loud and simple genres with music, dance, mime, circus arts and slapstick, but also sensitive theatre plays or songs in discrete spaces.
The granite rocks of the Juhöhe near Heppenheim inspired people to imagine fairy tales. They told, that the holes were offering cups for the devil. Stones nearby got chapped, when he sharpened his claws. According to a local version of the Rodensteiner legend the Wild Hunter crossing the Juhöhe lost his cry of hounds: They crashed and where rammed in the ground. Even today the petrified dogheads are on view at the top of the hill. So the rocks are called Hundsköpfe. Flat iron is the name of another granite formation near the Juhöhe. A long time ago Giant-ladies made use of it to set their Sunday dresses in order.

File:Steinbruch Hainstadt.jpg|Climbing path at the Breuberg-Hainstadt quarry

File:HOHENSTEIN_Lautertal_631.JPG|Hohenstein near Reichenbach (Baryte-quartz-cliff)

File:BORSTEIN_Reichenbach_622.JPG|Borstein near Reichenbach (Baryte-quartz-cliff)

File:GNEIS-FELSGRUPPE Böllstein-Wallbrunn.JPG|Giant tortoise gneiss rocks (Böllstein)

File:TROMMGRANIT Salzlackenbuckel.JPG|Granite rocks (Tromm)

File:Felsenmeer Reichenbach Riesensaeule 03.jpg|Reichenbach-Felsenmeer: The giant column (Riesensäule) is a workpiece of Roman stonemasons.

File:Wildfrauhaus_Lützelbach.JPG|Granite rocks Wildfrauhaus (Fischbachtal)

File:Zwingenberg-wolfsschlucht-web.jpg|Zwingenberg (Neckar) gorge: Wolfsschlucht

File:Ramberg Freischuetz wildes Heer.jpg|When Caspar und Max begin with casting the magic bullets in the Wolf’s Glen the Wild Hunt appears in the air with demoniacal noise.

File: Juhöhe Große Hundsköpfe.JPG|The rocks at the Juhöhe are supposed to be the petrified dogheads of the Rodensteiner cry of hounds.

File:Opferstein Juhöhe.JPG|It is said that the holes of the Opfersteine were offering cups for the devil.

File: Höhnberg Bügeleisen2.JPG|People of the Kreiswald near the Juhöhe told, that a long time ago the granite formation was the flat iron of Giant-ladies

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Castles

The Odenwald is home to many historic castles and palatial residences. In times past the fortresses on the top of the Odenwald mountains controlled Bergstraße and the Weschnitz-, the Gersprenz-, the Mümling- and the Neckar-Valley.

File:Panorama castle frankenstein.jpg|Frankenstein near Darmstadt/Upper Rhine Rift valley

File:InnerCastle.jpg|Frankenstein Castle

File:Spot Ruine Tannenberg.JPG| The ruins of Tannenberg near Seeheim (Seeheim-Jugenheim)

File:Seeheim-Jugenheim-Heiligenberg-Schloss.jpg|Heiligenberg Castle near Jugenheim (Seeheim-Jugenheim)

File:Alsbach 2.JPG|Alsbach Castle, view from Melibokus (Alsbach-Hähnlein)

File:Schloss Auerbach.jpg|The ruins of Auerbach Castle near Bensheim

File:Fürstenlager Bensheim.jpg|Park and mansion Fürstenlager near Bensheim-Auerbach

File:Schoenberger Schloss 02.jpg|Schönberg Castle (Bensheim-Schönberg)

File:2005-10-13 Heppenheim 2.JPG|Bergstaße: Starkenburg (view from Maiberg, Heppenheim)

File:Starkenburg Schlossberg.jpg|Starkenburg with Schlossberg (Heppenheim)

File:Schloss Weinheim 04.jpg|Weinheim Castle

File:Burg Windeck (Weinheim).jpg|The ruins of Windeck (Weinheim)

File:Wachenburg.jpg|Wachenburg near Weinheim (Two-Castles-Town)

File:WEINHEIM_Heidelberger Granitgebiet_658.JPG|Wachenburg (view from Hirschkopf-tower), Weißer Stein (lookout tower) in the background

File:Schriesheim Strahlenburg2.JPG| Strahlenburg near Schriesheim

File:Dossenheim_Schauenburg.jpg|The ruins of Schauenburg in Dossenheim

File:Birkenau schloss.JPG| Birkenau Castle near Weinheim

File:BurgLindenfels.jpg|The ruins of Lindenfels Castle, Bürgerturm (tower)

File:Lindenfels_Weschnitztal_824.JPG|View from Weschnitztal to Lindenfels (left), in the background right of centre: Reichenberg Castle, left picture margin: Neunkircher Höhe

File: Rodenstein_1.jpg|The ruins of Rodenstein near Fränkisch-Crumbach are the setting of a ghost story: Rodensteiner flies with a berserker-cornet in the night through the air to prophesy the start of a war (see above).

File:Reichelsheim_Schloss Reichenberg_2.jpg|Reichenberg Castle, entrance, near Reichelsheim

File:Gersprenztal_Böllsteiner_Odenwald.JPG|Gersprenz-Valley with Reichenberg

File:Schloss Lichtenberg Blick vom Bollwerk.jpg| Lichtenberg Castle (Fischbachtal)

File:Nördliche Flasergranitoidzone Reinheimer Bucht.JPG|Neunkircher Höhe with a view to Lichtenberg Castle (left) and the Reinheimer Bucht: Otzberg to the right of centre

File:Wilhelm Trübner - Schlosspark in Lichtenberg im Odenwald (1900).jpg|Castle Grounds in Lichtenberg in Odenwald, Wilhelm Trübner, 1900. Colección Carmen Thyssen Bornemisza.

File:Otzberg panoramo 2.jpg|extinct volcano Otzberg and the old fort Veste Otzberg with the white tower

File:Schloss Erbach Odenwald.jpg| Erbach Castle

File:Schlossfuerstenau2.jpg|Fürstenau Castle (near Michelstadt) with decorative gateway arch

File:Bad Koenig Altes Schloss.jpg|Old Castle in Bad König

File:Burg Breuberg - Breuberg Odenwald.jpg|Burg Breuberg near Höchst in the summer of 2006

File:Burg Breuberg05.jpg|Breuberg Castle, keep (Bergfried) and main gate

File:Wildenburg1.JPG|The ruins of Wildenberg (Kirchzell) from the High Middle Ages, built in the Staufer era, where Wolfram von Eschenbach is said to have written parts of his Parzival.

File:Wolfram47.jpg|Portrait of the medieval poet Wolfram von Eschenbach from the Codex Manesse

File:Burg Wildenberg Kamin 1.jpg|Fireplace in the great hall. In Wolframs Parzival the author indirectly compares the gigantic fireplace in the Grail Castle with that of Wildenberg: “so groziu fiwer sit noch e sach niemen hie ze Wildenberc” (line 230,12-13)

File:Burg Freienstein01.jpg|The ruins of Freienstein near Beerfelden

File:Waldleiningen.jpg|Waldleiningen Castle in the British-style (near Mudau)

File:Heidelberg corr.jpg|Heidelberg with Castle and the Old Bridge over river Neckar

File:Neckarsteinach1.JPG|Neckarsteinach with Mittelburg (left) and Vorderburg (in the middle)

File:Neckarsteinach_Vorderburg.JPG|Neckarsteinach: Vorderburg

File:Neckarsteinach_Mittelburg3.JPG|Neckarsteinach: Mittelburg

File:Neckarsteinach_Hinterburg1.JPG|Neckarsteinach: Hinterburg

File:Schadeck-wehrgang.jpg|Neckarsteinach: The ruins of Schwalbennest

File:Codex Manesse Bligger von Steinach.jpg|The medieval feudal lord and poet (minnesinger) Bligger von Steinach (Portrait from the Codex Manesse) resided in Steinach (Neckarsteinach)

File:Neckartal.jpg|Dilsberg with mountain fort

File:Burgturm Dilsberg.jpg|Tower and wall of Dilsberg near Neckarsteinach

File:Burg Hirschhorn.jpg|Hirschhorn with Hirschhorn Castle

File:Burg-Eberbach02.jpg|The ruins of Eberbach Castle

File:Burg Zwingenberg 2009.jpg|Zwingenberg Castle (also called the Zwingenburg) (Zwingenberg/Neckar)

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Music

Songs have been written about the Odenwald:

Es steht ein Baum im Odenwald (“There Stands a Tree in the Odenwald”)
Tief im Odenwald (“Deep in the Odenwald”)
Der Bauer aus dem Odenwald (“The Farmer from the Odenwald”)

References

External links

Odenwald – Official page of Odenwald-Regional-Gesellschaft (OREG)
UNESCO Geo-Park – Official page of Geo-Naturpark Bergstraße-Odenwald
Odenwaldklub – Official page of Odenwaldklub
Regionalentwicklung Odenwald – Official page of Interessengemeinschaft Odenwald e.V. (IGO)

Location

Geology

Geological maps

Transport and tourism

Roads

Railways

Special day trips

Castles

Music

See also

References

Further reading

Monographs and anthologies

Periodicals

The Odenwald in Literature

External links