(or Tsal<u>x</u>aan in the Tlingit language) is a mountain located east of the Pacific Ocean on the Canada–United States border. With an elevation of , it is the tallest mountain in British Columbia and the seventh-tallest mountain in both Alaska and the United States. Fairweather is part of the Saint Elias Mountains and mostly lies within Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve, though the summit borders Tatshenshini-Alsek Provincial Park.
After a failed attempt in 1926, Fairweather was first climbed in 1931 by Allen Carpé and Terris Moore. on May 3, 1778 apparently for the unusually good weather encountered at the time.
The mountain has also gained several names from different languages:
- "Mt. Beautemps" by La Perouse (1786, atlas)
- "Mte. Buen-tiempo" by Galiano (1802, map 3)
- "Gor[a]-Khoroshy-pogody" on Russian Hydrographic Dept. Chart 1378 in 1847
- "G[ora] Fayerveder" by Captain Tebenkov (1852, map 7), Imperial Russian Navy
- "Schönwetterberg" by Constantin Grewingk in 1850
- "Schönwetter Berg" by Justus Perthes in 1882
Geography
Mount Fairweather is located right above Glacier Bay in the Fairweather Range of the Saint Elias Mountains. Mount Fairweather also marks the northwest extremity of the Alaska Panhandle.<!--adjusted that but still really it's Yakutat Bay/Mt St Elias-->
Like many peaks in the St. Elias Mountains, Mount Fairweather has great vertical relief due to its dramatic rise from Glacier Bay. However, due to often inclement weather in the area, this effect is usually obscured with the clouds which often hides the summit from view.
Weather
Despite its name, Mount Fairweather has generally harsh weather conditions, especially in the winter months, affected by intense North Pacific low pressure systems arriving from the Gulf of Alaska. It receives over of precipitation each year (mostly snow) and sees temperatures of around .
Climbing history
No documented attempt at climbing the mountain had been successful until 1931.
- 1926 Allen Carpe, Andy Taylor and W.S. Ladd reached on the West Ridge, but were forced back due to a steep notch in the ridge that made ferrying supplies very difficult.
First Documented Ascent
thumb|right|290px|The north face of Mt. Fairweather centered
thumb|right|290px|The SE Ridge (Carpé) Ridge rises fom the right side of the photo
After failing to reach the summit in 1926 due to terrain difficulty on their chosen route, Allen Carpe, W.S. Ladd, Andy Taylor returned in 1931 along with a new member Terris Moore. In early April the group began their approach by boat but stormy weather delayed them rounding Cape Fairweather until April 17. They reached Lituya Bay and unloaded their supplies on the beach. Backtracking along the coast, they made their way to the Fairweather Glacier. From base camp in a spot they called Paradise Valley, they decided to attempt the mountain from the south rather than via the west ridge. Due to deep snow, they realized that skis and snowshoes would be of great help so Carpe and Moore made the round trip to fetch them from Lituya Bay.