Hvar (Chakavian: For, ) is a town and port on the island of the same name, part of Split-Dalmatia County, Croatia. The municipality has a population of 4,251 (2011) while the town itself is inhabited by 3,771 people, making it the largest settlement on the island of Hvar. It is situated on a bay in the south coast of the island, opposite from the other nearby towns of Stari Grad and Jelsa.

The town of Hvar has a long and distinguished history as center for trade and culture in the Adriatic. A commune, part of the Venetian Empire during the 13th to 18th centuries, it was an important naval base with a strong fortress above, encircling the town walls and protecting the port. Cultural life thrived as prosperity grew, and Hvar is the site of one of the oldest surviving theatres in Europe, opened in 1612. The seven-hundred-year-old walls still survive, as do many of the noble houses and public buildings from the 15th – 17th centuries.

By the 19th century, the port of Hvar was no longer a military base, and The Hygienic Society of Hvar (Higijeničko društvo u Hvaru), celebrating 150 years in 2018, took the economy of the town and the island in a new direction. As one of the earliest "tourist boards" in Europe, it was founded in 1868 with the purpose of providing "good care for visitors". Today, the town has a variety of hotels, galleries, museums, and exhibitions, including the Arsenal, Loggia, the Croatian Institute, and the Hvar Heritage Museum with its art and archaeological collections.

The port of Hvar, set in a picturesque natural bay, with the Pakleni Otoci island chain protecting it to the south, is a safe haven for boats year round. The town is a common port of call for yachts sailing around the Adriatic, especially in the summer months. There are regular catamaran ferry services from the port between Hvar and Split, Brač, Korčula, Lastovo, and Vis.

Municipality

The municipality of Hvar covers 7,535 ha, including the town itself and the settlements of Brusje (pop. 194), Jagodna (pop. 30), Velo Grablje (pop. 7), Milna (pop. 104), Zaraće (pop. 14) and Sveta Nedilja (pop. 131). The old settlements of Malo Grablje and Zaraće are no longer inhabited. Population figures from the 2011 census. now provides quick and easy access between the north and south.

The coastline is mostly steep and indented, with small gravel beaches in the bays. The Pakleni Otoci and the island of Galešnik at the entrance to the port of Hvar are protected landscape areas.

Climate

Hvar town enjoys a sunny Mediterranean climate, typical of the southern Adriatic, with mild wet winters and hot dry summers. During June to September, the average temperature is higher than , dropping below in just two months of the year (January and February). Winter days see highs between and lows from . Daytime high temperatures in the summer months range from and from for the overnight lows. During the summer, the westerly mistral wind blows through the Pakleni channel, providing welcome cooling during the day. Rain is rare here during spring and summer, though plentiful in autumn and winter months. Light snow occurs on average once every ten years, however, it does not stay on the ground long.

The average monthly temperature of the sea, from June through October, is . It is not unusual for the sea temperature to reach more than .

|date = July 2015

History

thumb|right|Spanish Fortress, Hvar town walls

thumb|Aerial view of the town and fortress

thumb|right|A view of the town of Hvar from the fortress

thumb|right|View of the town

The earliest known settlement on the site of today's Hvar town was Illyrian, lying on the hill slopes to the north side of the town square, which was then a small bay that came up to where the cathedral now stand, moreover (Ben) the cathedral is entirely surrounded by streets which resemble that of a block system common to American and Roman roads. On the site of the present Spanish Fortress stood a hillfort, the importance of which can be seen in the pottery from the site, indicating long-distance trade from the eighth century B.C. onwards.

The ancient Greeks founded the settlement of Faros (384 BC) on the north of the island, from where they could control the fertile agricultural area, now known as the Stari Grad Plain. It has been proposed that there was concurrently a second Greek settlement called Heraclea, on the site of today's Hvar town.

With the arrival of the Ancient Romans around 2nd century BC, settlement on the island was expanded. Colonisation was mainly rural, based around Roman villas (villae rusticae). During the 7th–8th centuries, the Slavs arrived on the island. At this time, life on the coast was not safe due to raiding pirates, and the inhabitants moved inland.Nowadays, the fleets are yachts, from sailboat charters to high-end luxury cruisers. The marina hosts a number of events year-round, including a New Year regatta.

Hvar is a destination for vacationers, especially during the summer season. There are a number of hotels in town, art galleries, museums, theatres, street cafes, and night clubs.

Culture

thumb|right|Town Square in Hvar, from the town theatre

Hvar has a rich cultural tradition. Along with independent Dubrovnik, Hvar was an important centre of early Croatian literature, as well as for architecture, sculpture, painting and music. Well-known Croatian cultural figures such as Hanibal Lucić, Petar Hektorović, Vinko Pribojević, Mikša Pelegrinović, Martin Benetović and Marin Gazarović lived and worked on Hvar in the 16th and 17th centuries.

Architecture

thumb|Town Walls

thumb|left|upright|St Stephen's Cathedral and bell tower mark the eastern end of the Pjaca.

thumb|left|upright|The Loggia and Clock Tower

Hvar Town is encircled on its land-side by protective walls, and overlooked by two massive fortresses set on the hills above. The fortifications were commissioned by the Venetians in 1278, to create a haven for their fleet, and have been expanded in the centuries since. Within the walls, the public buildings and palaces combine Venetian architectural style, with a distinct local flavour in materials and workmanship. Much of the old town survives intact, in both layout and architecture, though more modern housing has developed in the surrounding areas.

The town walls date from the 13th century and, with later additions and renovations, stretch from the fortress down to the square where they join the third wall in an east–west direction. This wall is practically camouflaged by a series of patrician houses built into it. The walls are interspersed with four-cornered side towers, the construction of which lasted, with essential repairs, from the 13th to the 16th century. The current fortress Fortica, also known as Tvrđava Španjola (Spanish Fort) was constructed following the gunpowder explosion in 1579 which devastated the old fortress.

Church of St. Veneranda was built in 1561 by the Venetian authorities to serve Greek Catholic sailors in the service of the Venetian Republic. Alongside the Greek Catholic altar, another Catholic altar was raised in 1685 and dedicated to St. Francis. During the Russian invasion on Hvar in 1807 the monastery and the church were damaged. In 1811 the French invaders turned the monastery into a fort. In the mid-19th century the complex was sold to the renowned natural scientist Grgur Bučić, who founded one of the first weather stations in Croatia in 1858.

The Gothic-Renaissance Church of the Annunciation was first mentioned in the 14th century. It had an important role in the commoners' revolt in 1510, when it was used as a sort of headquarters of the insurgents. In the nearby street, insurgents swore to kill all the local noblemen which was why the wooden crucifix cried in blood in the house of Bevilaqua on 6 February, according to a legend. The relief of the Annunciation is in the Renaissance lunette above the portal, made under the stylistic influence of Niccolò di Giovanni Fiorentino. The church became a centre of the Brotherhood of the Holy Cross, which is still active.

The late Gothic Church of the Holy Spirit was built at the end of the 15th century by the Brotherhood of the Holy Spirit at the place of an earlier and smaller church from the 14th century. It was consecrated in 1494. The oldest bell in Hvar dated to 1487 has been preserved in the bell tower. During the French administration (1806–1813) the Brotherhood of the Holy Spirit was abolished. The Brotherhood of St. Nicolas, founded in 1861, succeeded the Brotherhood of the Holy Spirit. An altar piece with the depiction of the Madonna by Padovanino can be seen the church.

Stella Maris church was made by the local builders. It was built at the beginning of the 19th century along the old Venetian coast, at the place of an earlier St. Joseph's church. During the French administration the church lost its religious purpose and became a warehouse, but its cult was subsequently restored. The façade has a semicircular gable with Renaissance and Baroque characteristics. Baroque marble altar with sculpture of Our Lady of Comfort is set in the church, originally from the Augustinian church in Hvar.

Building of the fortress started after 1278 when Hvar came under the Venetian rule. Fortress with the town walls represents a unique defensive system. In 1551 a new fortress was built at the place of the old one and it offered protection to population who had taken refuge there during the Turkish invasion in 1571. Explosion of gunpowder depot caused by thunder considerably damaged the fortress in 1579. It was repaired during the Duke Pietro Semitecolo's time at the beginning of the 17th century by building the Baroque defensive bastions. The last army barracks were built in 1775/76 during the reign of Maria Theresa. Collection of amphorae is located in the fortress.

Church of St. Mary was built in the 15th century as a single-naved Gothic building, at the place of the earlier chapel of the Holy Cross. Inside the lunette of the main portal is a sculpture of the Madonna with Child, the work of Niccolò di Giovanni Fiorentino, set up in 1465–1471. Northern nave of the church with the Renaissance chapel of the Holy Cross was built in 1536. Inside the church we can see the 16th century altars, choir with Renaissance crucifix (Venetian work from the 16th century) and the grave of the local poet Hanibal Lucić. Matteo Ponzoni's painting "Last Supper" is in the reflectory. Library and museum collection are also in the monastery.

Town walls enclose the northern part of the town and they are connected with the Fortica fortress. Their building started in the 13th century and they got the present shape during the 14th and 15th centuries. Top of the walls is fortified with a battlement with merlons, crenels and a walkway. It is reinforced with square towers at several places. Eastern gate is called Porta Badoer. Local name is Gradno vrota which means city gate becausem as opposed to other gates which connect various parts of Hvar, this gate leads outside the town. City walls have four gates.

Originally in the defensive system of the city walls, Clock Tower (Leroj) used to belong to the Duke's Palace complex, which was pulled down at the end of the 19th century. A public clock was incorporated into the tower in 1466 by order of the Duke Venier. The bell which is presently on the roof of the tower is from the year 1564 and is decorated with religious motifs.

Chapel of St. Nicholas was built at the end of the 14th century or the beginning of the 15th century in the Gothic style, at the place of an earlier Augustinian monastery with a church. Augustinian order was abolished in 1787. During French administration church and monastery were demolished for the most part. Church shrine with a Renaissance arch was preserved and presently it is the Chapel of Our Lady of Sadness. This complex was allotted for the town cemetery in 1849. Western front of the cemetery has a big triangular gable and an iron gate with the year 1879. Central part of graves is at the level of the pavement while on the southern side there are graves with tombstones.

Hvar historical Theatre is located on the second floor of the Arsenal building. On the lintel over the entrance door of the theatre is inscribed: ANNO SECVNDO PACIS MDCXII. The year 1612, as the inscription says, was the second year of peace between the confronted sides of the Hvar commune. Auditorium with boxes is dated to the year 1803 when the Theatre Society was founded. Present neo-Baroque appearance dates back to the middle of the 19th century. Two wall scenographies were preserved, fresco from 1819 is still at the back wall of the stage. Fresco from approximately 1900 depicting Duke's Palace was restored and set on large movable boards.

Monastery and the Church of St. Mark were first mentioned in 1312 and present remains date from the 16th and 17th century. Dominican Vinko Pribojević held his famous speech "On the Origin and Glory of the Slavs" in this church in 1525. In former triple-naved building there are graves of local families from the 15th to the 18th century, and the church was also used for the Town Council meetings. Monastery was abolished in 1811 during the French administration. Apse of the church was turned into a chapel in the end of the 19th century.

The Benedictine Convent has been located here since 1664, originally in the residential complex of the poet Hanibal Lucić's family, which was left by his daughter-in law in her will to the Benedictines in 1591. Next to the convent is the Baroque church of St. Antony the Abbot and John the Baptist from the 17th century and the convent collection of arts and lace made of agave threads which nuns have been making from the 19th century and which is inscribed in the UNESCO's List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.

The lower Paladini palace was built by the galley commander and knight Nikola Paladini in the floral Gothic style at the end of the 15th century. In 1870, the owner, doctor Dominik Gazzari changed the façade and the palace got its present look in the 19th century on the basis of Vičenco Kovačević's design. The ground floor and the disposition of windows on the floors were changed. This palace used to be called "summer palace", because before it was reconstructed there had been more rooms on the north side, which protected them from the summer heat.

Palace Užižić, earlier known as the Hektorović Palace incorrectly, was built about 1463 in floral Gothic style, at the place of the early Gothic house from the end of the 14th century, which is preserved within the present palace. It was built above the southern city wall, with a façade richly ornamented with single and triple lancet windows. The palace did not block the passage through the street in accordance with the Duke's decree. Members of the old noble family Užižić served as municipal officials performing various official duties. The palace remained unfinished for more than 500 years.

Central St. Stephen's square in the or Piazza is the largest square in Dalmatia. Originally it was a deep bay which was filled with rocks for centuries until it got its present dimensions. Subsequently, it was a space between two fortified cities: Groda on the north and Burg in the south. By the 15th century Piazza was formed with the cathedral in the east and sea in the west. It used to be wider than it is presently but due to shortage of space in the fortified city, houses were built on the northern part of Piazza in front of the city walls. Communal well in the center of Piazza dates from 1520. Piazza was fully paved in 1780.

On the southern wall towards the main square two gates were opened out of which the western one has the monumental portal in the Gothic style. It is called the Main Gate (Porta Maestra) and the Gate of the Palmtree (Porta del datallo) from the 15th century. In the 16th century this gate was also called the Market Gate (Porta del mercato).

Notable residents

  • Hanibal Lucić (1485–1553) – author
  • Mikša Pelegrinović (1500–1562) – author
  • Petar Hektorović (1487–1572) – poet, author
  • Vinko Pribojević (16th century) – historian, author
  • Martin Benetović (1553–1607) – playwright, author, musician, painter
  • Marin Gazarović (17th century) – poet, playwright, author
  • Juan Vucetich (1858–1925) – criminologist, pioneered the use of fingerprinting
  • Grga Novak (1888–1978) – historian, archaeologist
  • (1924–2011) – composer, founder of Klapa Nostalgija
  • Gabi Novak (born 1936) – singer
  • (1947–2000) – theatre director
  • Slobodan Prosperov Novak (born 1951) – professor, history
  • Kuzma Kovačić (born 1952) – sculptor

Honorary citizens

  • Blue Ivy Carter (born 2012) – singer, actress and a dancer, daughter of Beyoncé and Jay Z.

See also

  • Hvar Rebellion
  • Hvar (island)
  • Hvar Observatory
  • Gregada

References

Further reading

  • The Hvar Heritage Museum
  • [https://web.archive.org/web/20070812223720/http://www.nikodubokovic.com/]