Front-pointing (or German technique) is a technique used in mountaineering and ice climbing where a climber embeds, usually by a kicking action, the sharp metal 'front-point(s)' of their modern metal rigid crampon into the ice or hard packed snow to gain a secure foothold to assist their upward momentum on the climbing route. Some use a hybrid technique, the "pied troisieme" (or the 3 o'clock position), where one crampon (the lower one) is front-pointing while the other crampon is at a 90-degree sideways angle but still flat on the surface and following the French technique;

thumb|A [[crampon's two 'front points' can be horizontal (l) or vertical (r)]]

Front-pointing is an easy concept but takes experience to apply efficiently and safely.

Front-pointing dates from the early 1930s when Grivel added two front points to their 10-point crampon of the French technique. It came to international prominence when Heinrich Harrer, in his book about the famous 1938 first ascent of the Eiger north face, said "I looked back, down our endless ladder of [French technique] steps. Up it, I saw the New Era coming at express speed; there were two men running — I mean running, not climbing — up". The two men were Anderl Heckmair and Ludwig Vörg, who were front-pointing on the Eiger's second ice field. They joined with Heckmair and Fritz Kasparek to complete the climb. In the 1960s, Stubai bent the second row of points forward for additional "heel-dropping traction" when front-pointing (see image).

See also

  • Ice climbing
  • Mixed climbing
  • Dry tooling
  • UIAA Ice Climbing World Championships
  • Glossary of climbing terms

References

Further reading

  • WALKING TECHNIQUES ON ICE AND FIRN, (2024)
  • Alpine & Mountaineering: 3. Kicking Steps - Duck Foot, Flat Foot & Front Pointing, Climbing Tech Tips (2018)