Eger ( , ; ; also known by other alternative names) is the county seat of Heves County, and the second largest city in Northern Hungary (after Miskolc). A city with county rights, Eger is best known for its medieval castle, thermal baths, baroque buildings, the northernmost Ottoman minaret, and red wines. Its population of around 53,000 (2017) makes it the 19th largest centre of population in Hungary, according to the census. The town is located on the Eger Stream (a tributary of the Tisza river), on the hills between the Mátra and Bükk mountains. The main campus of Eszterházy Károly Catholic University is in Eger.

Names and etymology

thumb|left|250px|Eger in [[Georg Braun and Frans Hogenberg's Civitates orbis terrarum (1617)]]

The origin of its name is unknown. One suggestion is that the place was named after the alder ( in Hungarian) which grew so abundantly along the banks of the Eger Stream. This explanation seems to be correct because the name of the town reflects its ancient natural environment, and also one of its most typical plants, the alder, large areas of which could be found everywhere on the marshy banks of the Stream although they have since disappeared. The German name of the town: Erlau, from Erlen-au ('alder grove'), also speaks in favour of this supposition. And there is another theory which says that Eger's name comes from the Latin word: ager ('field'). This theory comes from more recent researchers who think that during the 11th and 12th centuries settlers with a Walloon origin moved to this territory.

The basin of Eger and the hilly region around it have always been very suitable for human settlements, and there are many archaeological findings from the early ages of history, which support this fact.

The other names of the town are in Latin Agria, in Serbian and Croatian Jegar / or Jegra / , in Czech and Slovene Jager, in Slovak Jáger, in Polish Eger, and in Turkish Eğri. Nickname: the Hungarian Athens

Coat of arms

Eger in the 16th century|thumb|left|250px

The shield of Eger developed from the shield of Bishop György Fenesy (1686–1689) after an agreement which was made with him in 1694. The bastion with the three gates on it refers to the existence of the fortress. The rampant unicorn between the two bastions on the side of the shield came from the bishop's shield. The sword in the fore-feet of the unicorn symbolises the manorial power of life and death. The snake twisting on the sword stands for the defeat of treachery and hatred by faith. The star and the sun symbolise the alternation of days and nights. And finally, the eagle with a gospel in its clutches refers to apostle and evangelist Saint John who is the patron saint of the Archdiocese of Eger.

History

Eger has been inhabited since the Stone Age.

Reign of Saint Stephen

thumb|left|250px|The ruins of the [[Romanesque architecture|Romanesque basilica in the Eger Castle]]

Today's Eger may have been formed in the 10th century by St. Stephen (997–1038), the first Christian king of Hungary, who founded an episcopal see in Eger. The first cathedral of Eger was built on Castle Hill, within the present site of Eger Castle. Eger grew around this cathedral, and remains an important religious centre in Hungary.

This settlement took up an important place among the Hungarian towns even in the early Middle Ages. The natural fundamentals of the surroundings (meeting of plains and hills) made it possible to establish economic and cultural relations between the different parts of the country.

During the 11th and 12th centuries, Walloon settlers came from the areas beyond the Rhine.

In World War II, the city suffered under the retreating German Army and the arriving Soviet army, but it managed to escape major bombardment.

In the decades after 1945, industrialization of the town commenced because of the change of regime. As a consequence, Eger's former character of a cultural centre began to fade, which diminished the patina of the settlement.

It was of great fortune that in 1968 the baroque inner city was preserved. It was saved from the deterioration (and from the construction of unsuitable, modern buildings).

thumb|left|250px|The birthplace of [[Sándor Bródy (writer)|Sándor Bródy in Eger]]

Eger is famous for its wines, most notably the "Egri Bikavér" (Bull's Blood of Eger). It is also well known for "Egri Víz", a type of brandy which originated in the 18th century, the "bujavászon" (a special Turkish tissue), as well as its thermal baths.

Today, Eger is a prosperous town and popular tourist destination with a charming Baroque town centre.

Ecclesiastical history

thumb|right|200px|The minorite church of Eger

Eger is the seat of the Roman Catholic Archdiocese of Eger, an ecclesiastical province of Hungary founded as a bishopric in 1009 and made a Metropolitan archdiocese in 1804, by Pope Pius VII. The current archbishop-elect, Archbishop Csaba Ternyak, was previously Secretary for the Congregation For Clergy. He succeeds Archbishop István Seregely, who retired because of age. The constituent dioceses of the province were Košice (Kassa, Kaschau), Rožňava (Rozsnyó, Rosenau, now part of Slovakia), Szatmár, and Szepes (Zipo, Zipsen).

Geography

Climate

Eger has a humid continental climate (Köppen: Dfb) closely bordering on an oceanic climate (Cfb) or humid subtropical climate (Cfa). The annual average temperature of Eger is , and the warmest July has an average temperature of , while January is the only month below freezing, with an average temperature of .

|source 2 = NOAA

Wine

thumb|left|200px|A vineyard in Eger

Beside its historic sights and its thermal baths, Eger is famous for its wines. It produces both red and white wines of high quality. The famous and traditional varieties of the region are Egri Leányka, Egerszóláti Olaszrizling, Debrői Hárslevelű (whites), and Egri Bikavér (a red). More recently, Chardonnay and Pinot noir wines have appeared. The region's wines are said to bear a resemblance to those of Burgundy. Although the quality of the wines deteriorated in the second half of the 20th century, especially the cuvees, Eger is slowly recovering its reputation as a wine region. The most important terroir of the Eger Wine Region is the Nagy-Eged Hill, which is a Grand Cru terroir, where premium Grand Superior wines are produced.

Tourism

The majority of visitors come for a single day (mostly from Slovakia), not staying overnight. Ukrainians and Russians frequent the Eger Castle, along with many Italians. Around the town, one may encounter many German-speaking travelers (Germans, Austrians, and Swiss) as well. However, the town is getting more popular for Turkish tourists, because of the common historical memories.

Eger is mainly known for its castle, thermal baths (including an Olympic size swimming pool), historic buildings (including Eger minaret - the northernmost Turkish minaret) and, above all else, its famous Hungarian red wines.

Transport

Rail

thumb|ARC bus on Line 5

The main railway station is located 1.5 km from the town centre. MÁV operates interregio train services to Budapest, and the trip is about 1 hours. Local trains to Füzesabony and Szilvásvárad also depart from this station.

thumb|Eger Railway Station

There are also smaller stations located near the castle and in the Felnémet district that are served by the Eger–Szilvásvárad local trains.

Coach

The bus station is located close to the basilica. Buses depart approx. every 30 minutes to Budapest, and the trip to the capital is about 2 hours. Volánbusz operates an extensive network of suburban and long-distance buses. Other bus companies also offer connections to a variety of destinations. Taking the bus to Felsőtárkány gets you close to several hiking and mountain biking trails.

Local bus

Volánbusz also operates a fleet of local buses, serving most parts of the town, although the majority of buses run in a north–south direction. Line 12 is the busiest line in the town, and it has stops at the railway station, the bus station and in the town centre.

Culture

thumb|left|250px|The [[Géza Gárdonyi Theater was named after the author of the Siege of Eger (1552), Géza Gárdonyi.]]

Districts

thumb|200px|right|Aerial photography of the Castle and a part of the Downtown, Tetemvár, Almagyar and Cifra hóstya

200px|thumb|right|The ruins of the medieval cathedral

(Note: Most of these districts are historical, but they often appear on maps and street signs.)

thumb|200px|The new swimming pool (architect: [[Imre Makovecz)]]

  • Almagyar – This hill in the eastern part of the town is one of the smart areas of Eger, near the castle. The streets are steep, but there are fine views. The southern part contains some of the buildings (campus and dormitories) of Eszterházy College.
  • Almár – The northernmost part of the town, it consists mainly of weekend cottages and plots for gardeners.
  • Belváros (town centre) – The centre of Eger is often called "the Baroque Pearl of Europe". Here are located Dobó tér, the main square of the historical town, surrounded by Baroque houses and St. Anthony's Church. Other historic buildings nearby include the Cathedral and the Lyceum.
  • Berva is now a housing estate about 2 km to the NW of Eger. Founded in 1951, it was a huge industrial park by the name of Finomszerelvénygyár, privatized in 1992.
  • Castle of Eger – The oldest and most famous part of Eger.
  • Cifra hóstya – North of the centre, this part of town is full of small houses and narrow streets. You can find the Firefighters' Museum there.
  • Csákó – a suburban area with larger houses, east of the railway station.
  • Érsekkert (Bishop's Garden) – The largest park in Eger, with sport facilities, a small lake, and a fountain.
  • Felnémet – This village, north of the town, was annexed to Eger in 1961 but still has a rural character. The parish church (1715–1750s, designed by Gianni Battista Carlone, an Italian who settled in Eger) was started by Bishop Gábor Antal Erdődy as a votive church after an outbreak of bubonic plague in 1710, and completed by his successor. It was dedicated to St. Rosalia, a guardian against plague.
  • Felsőváros (Upper Town), formerly Csebokszári (Cheboksary – capital town of Chuvash Republic, Russia) – The largest housing estate of Eger, it is full of four and ten-storied concrete buildings, providing homes for one third of the town's population. There are three high schools there.
  • Hajdúhegy – a suburban area similar to Almagyar across the valley with downtown being in between these 2 hills.
  • Hatvani hóstya – The district is split by Highway 25. It contains the stadium and the Reformed church.
  • Industrial zone – Several multinational companies have moved into this area east of Lajosváros.
  • Károlyváros (Charles Town) – One of the largest districts of Eger, Károlyváros is west of downtown. It contains the High School for the Health Professions, and the Agria Park Shopping Mall.
  • Lajosváros (Louis Town) – This district in the southern part of the town has several high schools and student hostels. It consists mainly of detached houses. Also called Kanada.
  • Maklári hóstya, Tihamér – This district is one of the fastest developing parts of the town. It contains public swimming pools (designed by Imre Makovecz).
  • Pásztorvölgy – A suburban area in Felnémet. Also has a high school.
  • Rác hóstya – Another suburban area west from Upper Town.
  • Szépasszonyvölgy ("Valley of the Beautiful Woman") – An area of Eger famous for its red wines (Bikaver or Bulls Blood) and known for its wine cellars.
  • Tetemvár – Another suburban area. The name ("Corpses' Castle") derives from the legend that Turkish war dead were buried here in 1552.
  • Vécseyvölgy – A suburban area with a small airfield for sports purposes.

Main sights

  • The Castle of Eger, noted for its successful defence against the 1552 Ottoman invasion.
  • The 17th-century Eger minaret. The northernmost Turkish minaret in Europe is 40 meters high and one of only three survivors in Hungary. It can be climbed for a good view of the town centre.
  • The system of cellars near the cathedral, called the Város a város alatt (literally "Town under the town").
  • Dobó tér. The Baroque Minorite Church (1758–67), built to the designs of Kilian Ignaz Dientzenhofer of Prague with original ceiling frescoes by Márton Reindl, is the focal point of the town's most imposing square, flanked by the Town Hall and the old priory buildings, part of which contain the Palóc Museum, showing the artefacts of a distinctive regional ethnic community. The square and several of the retail streets around it are pedestrianized.
  • The Lyceum (Eszterházy College), designed by József Gerl and Jakab Fellner and built in 1765–85, is a splendid example of the restrained Zopf style. There are three remarkable 18th-century frescoed ceilings, of which only the one in the library is open to the public. Painted by the Viennese artist Johann Lukas Kracker in 1778, it depicts the Council of Trent of 1545–63, which launched the Counter-Reformation. Among the figures depicted are the Reformers Luther and Zwingli, whose "heretical" books are being struck by a bolt of lightning. After the death of Kracker in 1779, Esterházy commissioned the Austrian Franz Sigrist (1727–1803) to complete the painting programme. Sigrist painted the ceiling in the Great Hall of the west bay representing the four university faculties (1781–1782). The beautifully furnished library opened in 1793. There is a camera obscura or periscope at the top of the building, projecting images of the town onto a table.
  • The Turkish Bath, commissioned by Abdi Pasha the Albanian
  • The Provost Minor's Palace, 1758, is the finest Rococo building in the town. It also has a fine fresco by Kracker ("The Triumph of Virtue over Sin"), other 18th-century murals, and remarkable 18th-century wrought ironwork.
  • The Archbishop's Garden
  • The Fazola gates, late Baroque wrought ironwork by Henrik Fazola
  • The Archbishop's Palace, a 15th-century Gothic palace
  • The Egri Road Beatles Múzeum was established in Hotel Korona, in the heart of the historic town of Eger. Guests can get a glimpse of the life and career of the band and its members in the frames of a professional guided tour, which provides an experience supported by up-to-date technical solutions. Films and contemporary newsreels are played on screens and the songs of the band can be listened to through headphones, whereas contemporary media publications, garments, models and limited edition rarities are displayed in the showcases. The monumental show of the Sgt. Pepper album, various games and photo-taking activities take the visitors back to the legendary sixties.
  • Szépasszonyvölgy ("The Valley of the Beautiful Woman"). A valley on the southern edge of Eger which has numerous wine cellars, many with their own wine bar catering to tourists. A tram shuttles tourists to/from Dobó tér in the summer months.

Churches

Eger has 17 churches, but the notable ones include:

  • The cathedral or basilica, built in 1831–37 to Classicist designs by József Hild, contains some remarkable painting and sculpture. Late morning organ recitals are held frequently.
  • The Minorite Church, 18th-century Baroque church
  • The Serbian Orthodox Church of St. Nicholas (Rác-templom) is in Zopf style (1784–86). The interior was commissioned from Viennese artists by the rich local Serbian community of that time. It is dominated by an iconostasis.
  • St Bernard Cistercian Church, 18th-century Baroque church

Population

Politics

The current mayor of Eger is Ádám Mirkóczki (Egységben a Városért Egyesület).

The local Municipal Assembly, elected at the 2019 local government elections, is made up of 18 members (1 Mayor, 12 Individual constituencies MEPs and 5 Compensation List MEPs) divided into this political parties and alliances:

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International relations

Turkey has an honorary consulate in the city.

Twin towns – sister cities

Eger is twinned with:

  • Cheboksary, Russia
  • Dolný Kubín, Slovakia
  • Esslingen am Neckar, Germany
  • Gheorgheni, Romania
  • Jericho, Palestine
  • Kutná Hora, Czech Republic
  • Mâcon, France
  • Mukachevo, Ukraine
  • Peja, Kosovo
  • Pori, Finland
  • Przemyśl, Poland
  • Sarzana, Italy

Notable people

  • Aaron Wise, rabbi and father of Stephen Samuel Wise
  • Péter Ács, chess grandmaster
  • Therese Benedek, Hungarian-American psychoanalyst
  • Aladár Bitskey, swimmer and trainer
  • Balázs Erdélyi, water polo player
  • Eva Erdelyi, swimmer
  • Géza Gárdonyi, historical novelist
  • Anna Gyarmati, snowboarder
  • Morris Koenig, Hungarian-American lawyer and judge
  • Kati Kovács, pop-rock singer
  • Klaudia Kovacs, film and theatre director
  • Norbert Madaras, water polo player, Olympic winner
  • Shimon Sofer, Rav of Eger
  • Yochanan Sofer, Erlauer Rebbe
  • Réka Szemerkényi, Ambassador to the United States
  • Gergő Zalánki, water polo player
  • Balázs Holló, Hungarian 2020 Olympic swimmer

See also

  • Stars of Eger (1968 film)

Notes

References

thumb|250px|The house of the Sághy-Steinhauser family

;Attribution

  • in Hungarian, English, German and Polish
  • The Complete Guide to Eger Sightseeing, accommodation, activities and wine tourism in the Eger area
  • A modern traveller's account of his visit to Eger
  • Eszterházy College Eszterházy College
  • Egervaros.hu
  • Aerial photography: Eger
  • Eger and its surroundings on old postcards (collection of the municipal library)
  • Eger – ShtetLink
  • Eger at funiq.hu