Crevasse rescue (or crevasse-extraction) is a set of techniques in mountaineering where climbers use their equipment to pull a climber, who has just fallen into a crevasse, to safety.

When a climber falls into a crevasse, ideally the other rope team member(s) react quickly and self-arrest using their ice axes so they are not also dragged into the crevasse. They will also assess the level of force that the lip of the crevasse can withstand for any hauling, and they may reinforce the lip with clothing or spare equipment (e.g. an ice axe or ski poles) if needed. If the rope team had been using friction knots in the rope to help absorb any crevasse fall — they grab the lip — they must now decide how to get around these knots when hauling upwards (e.g. use a separate rope).

If the fallen climber can move and has prussik knots and/or ascenders, then they can jumar up the now fixed rope and effectively perform a self-rescue to the surface. Where the fallen climber is unable to do this due to injury, being constrained by the crevasse walls, or lack of skill and equipment, then the other climber(s) will have to haul the fallen climber up from the crevasse. however, there are many variations depending on the specific equipment and skill-level of the members. In very developed areas, such as the Mont Blanc Massif, rescue helicopters have mechanical winches to directly haul climbers — or skiers — from deep crevasses.

See also

  • Climbing technique
  • Glossary of climbing terms
  • Mountain rescue
  • Self rescue (climbing)

References

Further reading

  • YOUR INSURANCE: PROTECTION AND RESCUE METHODS ON FIRN AND ICE, (2024)
  • Crevasse Rescue Techniques, Cicerone Press (2015)