Chaves (), officially the City of Chaves (), is a city and a municipality in the north of Portugal. It is 10&nbsp;km south of the Spanish border and 22&nbsp;km south of Verín (Spain). The population of the entire municipality in 2011 was 41,243, in an area of 591.23&nbsp;km<sup>2</sup>. The municipality is the second most populous of the district of Vila Real (the district capital, Vila Real, is 60&nbsp;km south on the A24 motorway). With origins in the Roman civitas Aquæ Flaviæ, Chaves has developed into a regional centre. The urban area or city proper has 17,535 residents (2001).

History

thumb|left|[[Vespasian|Titus Flavius Caesar Vespasianus Augustus, patron of Aquae Flaviae]]

thumb|left|Remnants of the ancient [[keep of the Castle of Chaves]]

thumb|right|Roman bridge of Emperor Trajan crossing the [[Tâmega river]]

thumb|right|Cannon near the castle

Artefacts discovered in the region of Chaves identify the earliest settlement of humans dating back to the Paleolithic. Remnants discovered in Mairos, Pastoria and São Lourenço, those associated with transient proto-historic settlements and castros, show a human presence in the Alto Tâmega dating to the Chalcolithic. promoted the baths (with its warm medicinal waters); exploited local mines and alluvial deposits and other natural resources. Its importance led to the urban nucleus being elevated to the status of municipality in 79 AD, during the reign of the first Flavian Caesar, Titus Flavius Caesar Vespasianus Augustus.

Rome's hegemony lasted until the 3rd century, when, successively, the proto-Germanic tribes of the Suebi and Visigoths as well as the Alani colonized the imperial settlements of Chaves. Barbarian dominion lasted until the Moors invaded from North Africa, defeating the Visigoth King Roderic at the beginning of the 8th century.

The area around Chaves surrendered to invading Islamic forces at around 714-716, forcing many resisting Christians to escape from Chaves into the mountains in the northwest. The city was conquered by Alfonso I of Asturias in 773, alongside Braga, Porto and Lamego, and repopulated in 868 by Alfonso III of Asturias. Battles between the Christians and Muslim forces then continued until the 11th century, when Alfonso V of León permanently reconquered Coimbra, establishing a firm buffer-zone to the south. The Leonese fought battles in Barcelos, Braga and Guimarães, where they defeated Portuguese forces, before retiring to Galicia with their spoils. This was likely a self-serving decision on Fernando's part, as he was fearful that Leonese barons would support Sancho against him. Alfonso IX continued to occupy Chaves as a method of ensuring his wife, Teresa, would be able to enjoy her properties in Portugal. Yet, many nobles refused to break their oaths of fealty to Beatrice (including in Chaves), necessitating John's travel to Porto in force and scaring the nobles of Chaves and Bragança into capitulating.

French forces invaded and attacked in 1807, during the Siege of Chaves, part of the Peninsular Wars. On 7 March 1808, Soult's forces invaded northern Portugal to remove British forces from Iberia. Brigadier Francisco Silveira was charged with the defense of Chaves, but his 6000 men were unable to support its defense, and quickly abandoned the castle. An attempt to defend Chaves by Francisco Pizarro was futile, and the city surrendered to French forces shortly after the engagement. With too many troops to imprison Soult released many under oath, in order to continue the attack on the main forces who had retreated to the south.

On 12 March 1929, the town of Chaves was elevated to the category of city. Mixed with the schistose complex, there are bands of graphitic slates, mainly in the southern part of the urbanized area of Chaves and south-east of Faiões. The Chaves graben was formed by the relative motion of the block with different types of sediments being settled. The most recent formations are a sedimentary series (lacustrine, alluvial, colluvial, detritic, etc.) with variable thickness that had their origin during the Miocene. Two main faults cross and influence the tectonic activities: the north-northeast by south-southeast Chaves-Verin Fault and a fault system crossing near Faiões and Santo Estêvão. Intense neotectonic activity reactivated these old fractures, originating in a complex pattern of faults in the sedimentary basin.

Human geography

Government is administered by the Municipal Chamber of Chaves (), while locally the municipality is divided into the following parishes (freguesias):

  • Águas Frias
  • Anelhe
  • Bustelo
  • Calvão e Soutelinho da Raia
  • Cimo de Vila da Castanheira
  • Curalha
  • Eiras, São Julião de Montenegro e Cela
  • Ervededo
  • Faiões
  • Lama de Arcos
  • Loivos e Póvoa de Agrações
  • Maços
  • Madalena e Samaiões
  • Mairos
  • Moreiras
  • Nogueira da Montanha
  • Oura
  • Outeiro Seco
  • Paradela
  • Planalto de Monforte (Oucidres e Borbadela)
  • Redondelo
  • Sanfins
  • Santa Cruz-Trindade e Sanjurge
  • Santa Leocádia
  • Santa Maria Maior
  • Santo António de Monforte
  • Santo Estêvão
  • São Pedro de Agostém
  • São Vicente
  • Soutelo e Seara Velha
  • Travancas e Roriz
  • Tronco
  • Vala de Anta
  • Vidago, Arcossó, Selhariz e Vilarinho das Paranheiras
  • Vila Verde da Raia
  • Vilar de Nantes
  • Vilarelho da Raia
  • Vilas Boas
  • Vilela do Tâmega
  • Vilela Seca

Demographics

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In the past 127 years, the municipality has seen a 29% increase in local population (from 31815 in 1864 to 40940 in 1991). This was not a gradual nor homogeneous increase, since there were periods of extreme growth or rapid decline. During the 20th century, growth after 1920 is notably influenced by the restriction of trans-Atlantic emigration, just like after 1991, the population decreases were associated with liberal emigration policies as a result of the Maastricht Treaty.

The parish populations have seen fluctuations, although the most recent census show that 31 of these agglomerations had population levels in 1991 much lower than their first tabulation. Further, analysis of the data identifies that the municipal increase (29%) was primarily from the more urbanized parishes, while peripheral rural/mountainous parishes show net decreases. Many of the local people have emigrated to settlements in northern Europe in addition to France, but commonly return or visit their villages for weddings or village festivals. Many residents of Chaves have also immigrated to Connecticut and New Jersey in the United States.

Chaves has been isolated from the coastal urban centres and has suffered from a lack of convenient road communications. Recently, a new four-lane highway (A24) was opened to traffic. It links Chaves to Vila Real, and to the border with Spain. In Vila Pouca de Aguiar the highway also connects with the A7 that leads to Porto.

City

thumb|right|Chaves nightlife

The population of the city encompasses 17,535 residents in the parishes of Santa Cruz-Trinidade, Madalena, and Santa Maria Maior: these parishes form the urbanized population of the city of Chaves.

Although many of the older buildings outside the historical walls were demolished to make way for apartment blocks, the medieval quarter with its Rua Direita and Rua de Santo António have been declared historic zones. In these areas there are narrow multi-story dwellings, whose origin has been limited by the walled city. Historically, the old quarter was the city, and few buildings were located outside its walls, since its frontier location and the imminent risk of invasion impeded the construction of homes outside the barriers. Consequently, space was limited and land primarily used for multi-purpose dwellings, resulting in very narrow streets and multi-story structures (with balconies that extend over the streets and protected the citizenry). Many of the lower floors were occupied by shops or small businesses, while the residents lived in the upper stories. Remnants of these verandas are still visible in the medieval quarter.

The walled city was at the forefront of the political turmoils during the Reconquista, transited by armies and sacked by enemies. Chaves was built, destroyed, and rebuilt several times by either faction (Christian and Muslim), when they occupied the castle (it is likely that for some periods the town was completely abandoned). In 1253, Afonso III supported the reconstruction of the castle. By 1258, Chaves was granted the status of a vila (or town). While the walls were eventually rebuilt, the advent of artillery would make the castle's fortifications obsolete, and its importance waned, while the historical battlements fell into ruins.

On 15 November 2009 an extensive green space on the east side of the Tâmega River, between the Engenheiro Carmona Bridge and the Public Gardens, was opened to the public. It is an area with playgrounds, pedestrian and cycling paths, a beach football pitch, and a large grassy area. A modern pedestrian bridge was constructed to link the park and recreational area with the hot springs on the west bank of the river. At the same time cycling and walking paths were built on both banks of the river extending north for several kilometers. The pedestrian bridge, which is approximately 90&nbsp;ft, is Chave's tallest and most expensive bridge.

Economy

Agriculture and services are still the main sources of income. The traditional prosperity of Chaves comes, mainly, from a highly fertile plain, nine kilometres long and three to five wide, referred to as the"veiga". Since the land can be irrigated with canals there is intensive farming of potatoes, corn, rye, hay, while plots of vegetables are also commonplace in the local market. The main canal begins near Vila Verde da Raia and crosses the valley on the right bank of the Tâmega as far as Nantes. On the whole, the land is made up of small plots that are rarely economically viable. There is some dairy farming, and a milk production unit on the south side of town, but few cows can be seen in the valley. In general most of the farmers are of retirement age and farming is often pursued more as a hobby than as a profession.

In addition to agriculture there are some small industries producing glass, tiles, and food products. Like Vila Pouca de Aguiar, located thirty kilometres south, this is a land of granite; there are several granite extraction and finishing industries located in Chaves, in addition to three brickworks, located on the south side of the city. Further, two mineral water plants, located in Vidago, belong to the municipality.

Transportation

It is serviced by A24 motorway, which links Chaves with the south, to Viseu, Coimbra and Figueira da Foz, connecting to Vila Pouca de Aguiar by the A7 (which acts as the gateway to the southern Trás-os-Montes), and the N103 from Bragança to Braga. Chaves is located 415 kilometres from Lisbon, 105 kilometres from Porto and just 55 kilometres from the district capital, Vila Real.

Between 1921 and 1990 Chaves was the northern terminus station of the Corgo line, a narrow gauge railway line which linked Chaves with Vila Real and Regua (the junction station for main line trains to Porto). The section between Chaves and Vila Real closed in 1990 and the remainder of the line closed in 2009.

Chaves Airport, a small, single runway airport for light aircraft, also serves the town.

Architecture

The town of Chaves is built upon a long military history, that includes many fortifications or vestiges of battlements. Apart from the medieval castle and 17th century forts (Forte de São Francisco andForte de São Neutel), two medieval fortifications still exist: Santo Estêvão Tower (in the village of the same name north of Chaves) and Monforte Castle (in the hills east of the town).

Prehistoric

  • Bulideira Stone ()
  • Castro of Alto do Vamba ()
  • Castro of Curalha ()
  • Castro of Muradal ()
  • Castro of Outeiro dos Mouros ()
  • Castro of Santiago do Monte ()
  • Castro of Vale de Lagares ()
  • Prehistoric Rock-Art Site of Bustelo ()
  • Prehistoric Rock-Art Site of Eiras ()
  • Prehistoric Rock-Art Site of Outeiro Machado ()

Civic

thumb|The emblematic symbol of Chaves, the historic Roman bridge of Emperor Trajan

thumb|The former residence of the Majorat of Vilar de Perdizes, now the municipal palace/hall of Chaves

thumb|right|Railway Station of Chaves

  • Agrarian School of Alves Teixeira ()
  • Agricultural Cooperative of Chaves ()
  • Agricultural School of Chaves ()
  • Bridge of Arco ()
  • Bridge of Erdevedo ()
  • Bridge of Guilherme ()
  • Bridge of Meirinho ()
  • Bridge of Missa ()
  • Bridge of Ribela ()
  • Bridge of Oura ()
  • Bridge of Santiago ()
  • Bridge of Trajan (), a symbol of Chaves, the bridge was constructed during the reign of Emperors Vespasian and Trajan to span the Tâmega River and connect the Roman provincial towns of Astorga and Bracara Augusta, identifiable by columns, that identify the bridge and its dedication to Emperor;
  • Caixa Geral de Depósitos ()
  • Cine-Theatre of Chaves ()
  • Estate of Macieira em Casas Novas ()
  • Forest Administration of Chaves ()
  • Frontier Station of Vila Verde da Raia ()
  • Fountain of Águas da Facha ()
  • Fountain of Casa dos Montes ()
  • Fountain of Castelões ()
  • Fountain of Couto ()
  • Fountain of Cruzeiro ()
  • Fountain of Curalha ()
  • Fountain of Lagoinha ()
  • Fountain of Mina ()
  • Fountain of Olmo ()
  • Fountain of Povo de Castelões ()
  • Fountain of Quinta de Humberto Teixeira ()
  • Fountain of Santo António de Monforte ()
  • Fountain of Santa Marinha ()
  • Fountain of Vila Frade ()
  • Hospital of the Santa Casa da Misericóridia ()
  • Hospital of São João de Deus (), also known as the Church of Madalena, this 18th-century building was built during the reign of King John VI (his coat-of-arms appears on the main door), as a chapel and military hospital, but includes many Neoclassic and Baroque elements (including a high facade).
  • Hotel-Palace of Vidago ()
  • Kiln of Povo de Castelões ()
  • Markers of Ervededo ()
  • Manorhouse of Azeredo ()
  • Manorhouse of the Braganzas ()
  • Manorhouse of the Machados ()
  • Manorhouse of the Montalvões ()
  • Manorhouse of the Viscounts of Rosário ()
  • Municipal Council of Chaves ()
  • Municipal Council of Ervededo ()
  • Municipal Stadium Eng. Manuel Branco Teixeira ()
  • Palace of the Dukes of Braganza ()
  • Pillory of Chaves ()
  • Pillory of Erdevedo ()
  • Pillory of Monforte ()
  • Poldrado da Curalha
  • Pombal de Vila de Frade
  • Primary School Count Ferreira Chaves ()
  • Primary School of Águas Ferias ()
  • Primary School of Casas dos Montes ()
  • Primary School of Casas Novas ()
  • Primary School of Faiões ()
  • Primary School of Loivos ()
  • Primary School of Outeiro Jusão ()
  • Primary School of Outeiro Seco ()
  • Primary School of Santo António de Monforte ()
  • Primary School of São Estêvão ()
  • Primary School of São Lourenço ()
  • Primary School of Selhariz ()
  • Primary School of Vilar de Nantes ()
  • Primary School of Vilarinho de Paranheiros ()
  • Primary School of Vilela do Tâmega ()
  • Railway Bridge of Tâmega ()
  • Railway Station of Chaves ()
  • Railway Station of Tâmega ()
  • Railway Station of Vidago ()
  • Residence of Abade de Baçal ()
  • Residence of Bastos ()
  • Residence of Meio do Povo ()
  • Residence of Quinta da Mata ()
  • Residence of Vilar de Nantes ()
  • Roman Thermal Spa of Chaves ()
  • Secondary School Dr. Júlio Dinis ()
  • Watermills of Curalha ()

Military

thumb|The former Keep Tower of Chaves, principal remnant of the castle and fortifications of medieval Chaves

  • Castle of Chaves (), classified as a Monumento Nacional since 22 March 1938, the 14th century castle was constructed in the reign of King D. Dinis, but today only the keep tower remains;
  • Castle of Ervededo ()
  • Castle of Mau Vizinho ()
  • Castle of Monforte de Rio Livre ()
  • Castle of Santo Estêvão ()
  • Fort of São Francisco (), plans for a hill fort had persisted since the Middle Ages, but this fort was only constructed following the Portuguese Restoration War, and saw service during the Napoleonic Invasion and Liberal Wars;
  • Fort of São Neutel (), built on a northern hill for a perceived possible Spanish invasion, during the Portuguese Restoration War, the fort was connected to the defensive line of Chaves.

Religious

thumb|The Romanesque facade of the Church of Nossa Senhora da Azinheira

right|thumb|The front facade of the parochial Church of Santa Maria Maior, former cathedral dating to the 11th century

right|thumb|The Church of the Misercórdia, built in the 17th century, is the dynastic resting place for some members of the [[House of Braganza]]

thumb|The ornate rooftop of the Baroque-influence Church of São João de Deus, commonly known as the Church of Madalena

thumb|Chapel of Nossa Senhora da Lapa

In addition to the old Church of São Francisco (which for three centuries was resting place of the first Duke of Braganza), there are other buildings which have been artistically converted into hotel rooms, and which served the army as barracks for many years.

  • Chapel of Espírito Santo ()
  • Chapel of Granjinha ()
  • Chapel of Nossa Senhora das Brotas ()
  • Chapel of Nossa Senhora da Conceição ()
  • Chapel of Nossa Senhora das Dores ()
  • Chapel of Nossa Senhora da Encarnação ()
  • Chapel of Nossa Senhora da Lapa ()
  • Chapel of Nossa Senhora do Loreto ()
  • Chapel of Nossa Senhora da Penha ()
  • Chapel of Nossa Senhora da Piedade ()
  • Chapel of Nossa Senhora do Pópulo ()
  • Chapel of Nossa Senhora do Rosário ()
  • Chapel of Nossa Senhora do Rosário de Sanjurg()
  • Chapel of Pai Mogo ()
  • Chapel of Santa Catarina ()
  • Chapel of Santa Marinha ()
  • Chapel of Santa Marta ()
  • Chapel of Santo António ()
  • Chapel of Santiago ()
  • Chapel of São Bartolomeu ()
  • Chapel of São Bento ()
  • Chapel of São Bernardino ()
  • Chapel of São Geraldo ()
  • Chapel of São João Baptista ()
  • Chapel of São Martinho ()
  • Chapel of São Miguel ()
  • Chapel of São Nicolau ()
  • Chapel of São Roque ()
  • Chapel of São Sebastião ()
  • Chapel of São Simão ()
  • Chapel of São Tiago ()
  • Chapel of Senhor dos Aflitos ()
  • Chapel of Senhor do Bom Caminho ()
  • Chapel of Senhor do Calvário ()
  • Chapel of Senhor dos Desamparados ()
  • Chapel of Senhor dos Passos ()
  • Chapel of Senhora de Livração ()
  • Chapel of Senhora de Portela ()
  • Church of Castelões ()
  • Church of the Divino Salvador ()
  • Church of Nossa Senhora da Assunção ()
  • Church of Nossa Senhora da Assunção ()
  • Church of Nossa Senhora da Azinheira ()
  • Church of Nossa Senhora da Conceição ()
  • Church of Nossa Senhora da Conceição ()
  • Church of Nossa Senhora da Expectações ()
  • Church of Nossa Senhora da Expectações ()
  • Church of Nossa Senhora da Natividade ()
  • Church of Nossa Senhora das Neves ()
  • Church of Nossa Senhora das Neves ()
  • Church of Nossa Senhora das Neves ()
  • Church of the Sagrada Família ()
  • Church of the Santa Casa da Misericórida (), this 17th-century Baroque church, was the main chapel of the Dukes of Bragança, that included four Greek columns and mythological sculptures, surmounted by an image of Nossa Senhora da Misericórdia (), while the interior was covered in 18th century blue-and-white azulejo that depicted biblical scenes, while the wooden ceiling has a scene of the Visitation, painted by Jerónimo Rocha Braga (1743).
  • Church of Santo André ()
  • Church of Santo André ()
  • Church of Santo António ()
  • Church of Santo António ()
  • Church of Santa Clara ()
  • Church of Santo Estêvão ()
  • Church of Santa Eulália ()
  • Church of Santa Leocádia ()
  • Church of Santa Luzia ()
  • Church of Santa Maria ()
  • Church of Santa Maria ()
  • Church of Santa Maria ()
  • Church of Santa Maria Maior (), the 12th century Romanesque parochial church and former-cathedral (decommissioned when the bishopric was moved to Vila Real and abandoned after 716 A.D. during the Moorish invasion), was renovated in the 16th century, but the three nave church conserves many of the sturdy solid granite features and austere facade on the exterior and interior (such as the cylindrical columns supporting eight arches, a stone-ribbed dome covering the main chapel, stained glass and an unpainted oak ceiling).
  • Church of Santa Marta ()
  • Church of Santa Marta ()
  • Church of Santiago ()
  • Church of São Bartolomeu ()
  • Church of São Bartolomeu ()
  • Church of São Francisco ()
  • Church of São Gonçalo ()
  • Church of São Geraldo ()
  • Church of São João Baptista ()
  • Church of São Julião ()
  • Church of São Martinho ()
  • Church of São Miguel ()* Church of São Pedro ()
  • Church of São Pedro de Sanfins ()
  • Church of São Tiago ()
  • Church of São Tiago ()
  • Church of São Tiago ()
  • Church of São Tomé ()
  • Church of São Vicente ()
  • Convent of São Francisco ()
  • Cross of Calvão ()
  • Cross of Eiras ()
  • Cross of Lugar do Couto ()
  • Cross of Nossa Senhora da Piedade ()
  • Cross of Outeiro Seco ()
  • Cross of Sanjurge ()
  • Cross of São Bento ()
  • Cross of São Sebastião ()
  • Cross of Senhora da Piedade ()
  • Cross of Senhora da Portela ()
  • Cross of Vidago ()
  • Cross of Vilela Seca ()
  • Monastery of Nossa Senhora da Conceição ()
  • Sanctuary of Alto do Coto ()
  • Sanctuary of Nossa Senhora da Aparecida (), constructed on the site of an 1833 Marian apparition, when three shepherd children (similar to the events in Fátima, Portugal) witnessed the Virgin Mary.
  • Sanctuary of São Caetano (), constructed in honour of Saint Cajetan (a Catholic Theatine orator from the Counter Reformation), it is the centre of annual (7 August) celebrations, when seven images of the saint are carried in religious processions.
  • Sanctuary of Senhora de Engaranho (), a sanctuary dedicated to an uncommon invocation to the image of Mary (responsible for aiding those with diseased-, crooked-/crossed-legs, or afflictions associated with walking, such as rickets), families with young children would visit the sanctuary and bathe their children in a carved granite stone with "miraculous waters". In addition to chapel to Our Lady of Necessities there are smaller chapels dedicated to St. Catejan, St. Blais and St. Benedict, and religious cross.