is one of the eight-thousanders, and is located in the Karakoram range spanning Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan and Xinjiang, China. It is the 12th highest mountain in the world at elevation above sea level. The first ascent of this mountain was in June 1957, accomplished by Fritz Wintersteller, Marcus Schmuck, Kurt Diemberger, and Hermann Buhl as part of an Austrian expedition.

Geography

Broad Peak is part of the Gasherbrum massif in Baltistan situated on the border of Pakistan and China.

Climbing history

The first ascent of Broad Peak was achieved between June 8 and 9, 1957 by Fritz Wintersteller, Marcus Schmuck, Kurt Diemberger, and Hermann Buhl of an Austrian expedition led by Marcus Schmuck. A first attempt by the team was made on May 29 where Fritz Wintersteller and Kurt Diemberger reached the forepeak (8,030 m). The first ascent took the West Spur and was accomplished without the aid of supplemental oxygen, high-altitude porters, or base camp support.

In the winter and summer of 2009, there were no summits. There was one winter expedition by a Polish-Canadian team. In the summer there was one fatality, Cristina Castagna.

On March 5, 2013 Maciej Berbeka, Adam Bielecki, Tomasz Kowalski and Artur Małek made the first winter ascent and conquered the mountain peak without oxygen during the winter. Broad Peak was the twelfth eight-thousander summited in wintertime and the tenth eight-thousander first summitted in winter by the Polish climbers.

On July 23, 2016, Frenchman Antoine Girard's paraglider flight over Broad Peak was the first time a paraglider had flown above an 8,000-metre summit.

On July 14, 2019, 17-year-old Shehroze Kashif from Pakistan became the youngest ever to summit this peak.

Timeline

  • 1954 First attempt by Dr. Karl Herrligkoffer of Germany on the SW side that failed due to a storm and extreme cold.
  • 1982 Reinhold Messner summits.
  • 1983 First ascent by a woman, Krystyna Palmowska.
  • 1988 March 6, Maciej Berbeka climbs to the 'Rocky Summit' (8028 m), becoming the first person to reach one of the summits of Broad Peak over 8000m during the winter.
  • 1992 On August 4, Enric Dalmau Ferré, Òscar Cadiach, Alberto Soncini and Lluís Ràfols were the first to reach the summit from the Chinese side.
  • 1994 On July 9, Carlos Carsolio reached the summit, establishing a new solo route now known as Route Carsolio.
  • 1997 On July 7, Anatoli Boukreev achieved a solo ascent.
  • 2013 July, Aidin Bozorgi, Pouya Keivan, and Mojtaba Jarahi of Iran ascended through a new route, named Route Iran.
  • 2014 Hunza Expedition to Broad Peak made the summit on 23 July 2014, Karim Hayat reached to main summit and Naseer Uddin turned back from Rocky summit. Karim Hayat became the first person from his village who reached 8000 m.
  • 2019 July 14, Shehroze Kashif at the age of 17 became the youngest ever to summit this peak. He also became the youngest Pakistani to reach this altitude.

Further reading

  • Richard Sale, Broad Peak, 2004. English published by Carreg Ltd in the UK.
  • Marcus Schmuck, Broad Peak 8047m Meine Bergfahrten mit Hermann Buhl, 1958. German published by Verlag "Das Bergland-buch" in Salzburg/Stuttgart.
  • Kurt Diemberger, Spirits of the Air, 1994. Mountaineers Books,
  • Hermann Buhl, Achttausand: Druber und Drunter, 1955, Munich. Afterword by Kurt Diemberger describes the Broad Peak expedition.
  • Zvezdnate noči (Starry Nights) by Dušan Jelinčič,
  • Anna Czerwińska Broad Peak'83 tylko dwie (Broad Peak'83 only two) "Sport i Turystyka", Warsaw 1989,
  • Jacek Hugo-Bader, Długi film o miłości. Powrót na Broad Peak, Polish published by Znak, Kraków 2014,
  • Broad Peak on Himalaya-Info.org (German)
  • Broad Peak on Summitpost
  • First Ascent: The official Website of the Austrian OEAV Karakoram expedition 1957 on BroadPeak.org
  • Virtual Aerial Video of Broad Peak