thumb|Bowler hat, mid-20th century ([[Peloponnesian Folklore Foundation|PFF collection)]]

The bowler hat, also known as a Coke hat, billycock, bob hat, or derby (United States), is a hard felt hat with a rounded crown, originally created by the London hat-makers Thomas and William Bowler in 1849 and commissioned by Lock & Co. Hatters of St James's Street, London. It became the quintessential attire of City of London gents in the early 1900s, a tradition that lasted until the 1970s.

The archetypal bowler hat was designed in 1849 by the London hat-makers Thomas and William Bowler to fulfill an order placed by the company of hatters James Lock & Co. of St James's, However, research performed by a younger relation of the 1st Earl casts doubt on this story, and James Lock & Co. claim that the bowler was invented for Edward Coke (1824–1889), the younger brother of Thomas Coke, 2nd Earl of Leicester.

Cultural significance in the British Isles

thumb|left|[[David Tomlinson as the banker George Banks in Mary Poppins, which was set in Edwardian London, when bowlers were associated with businessmen in the City of London. In modern times bowlers are not common, although the so-called City gent wearing a bowler and carrying a rolled umbrella remains a representation of Englishmen. For this reason, two bowler-hatted men were used in the logo of the British building society (subsequently bank) Bradford & Bingley.

thumb|right|Members of the [[Orange Order wearing bowler hats while celebrating The Twelfth, Belfast 2011]]

In Scotland and Northern Ireland the bowler hat is worn traditionally by members of the main Loyalist fraternities such as the Orange Order, the Independent Loyal Orange Institution, the Royal Black Preceptory and the Apprentice Boys of Derry for their parades and annual celebrations.

Female officers of many British police forces also wear bowler hats as part of their uniforms. This includes a cap badge and generally has a black-and-white chequered band (called Sillitoe tartan) around the hat. Bowlers worn by female traffic police officers have white crowns or covers. These hats are not worn in the Police Service of Northern Ireland.

They are also part of the uniforms of female police community support officers (PCSOs).

<gallery widths="200" heights="160" class="center">

File:WMP_Museum_-_West_Midlands_Police_hat_2_02.jpg|A typical bowler hat of female British police officers

File:WMP_Museum_-_West_Midlands_Police_Community_Support_Officer_hat_1_01.jpg|A typical bowler of female PCSOs in the UK

</gallery>

Outside the British Isles

thumb|left|upright|[[Butch Cassidy c. 1900]]

The bowler was the most popular hat in the American West, prompting Lucius Beebe to call it "the hat that won the West". Both cowboys and railroad workers preferred the hat because it would not blow off easily in strong wind while riding a horse, or when sticking one's head out the window of a speeding train. It was worn by both lawmen and outlaws, including Bat Masterson, Butch Cassidy, Black Bart, and Billy the Kid. In the United States the hat came to be known commonly as the derby,

The bowler hat was worn by the national hero of the Philippines, José Rizal, during his execution on 30 December 1896, and it is still seen as symbolic of the history of the Philippine Revolution.

South America

thumb|The bowler hat was introduced as part of womenswear among the [[Quechua people|Quechua and Aymara peoples of South America in the 1920s.]]

In South America, the bowler, known as in Spanish, has been worn by pollera women and indigenous Quechua and Aymara women since the 1920s, when it was introduced to Bolivia by British railway workers. For many years, a factory in Italy manufactured such hats for the Bolivian market, but they are now made locally.

  • The bowler hat was famously used by actors such as Charlie Chaplin, Laurel and Hardy, Shemp Howard and Curly Howard; and by the fictional character John Steed of The Avengers, played by Patrick Macnee, who wore a variety of bowler hats throughout the series. In the 1964 film Mary Poppins, set in Edwardian London, 1910, the London banker George Banks (played by David Tomlinson) wears a bowler.
  • thumb|upright|[[Bradford & Bingley logo (pictured in 2009) outside a branch in Manchester, England]] The British bank Bradford & Bingley owns more than 100 separate trademarks featuring the bowler hat, its long-running logo. In 1995, the bank purchased, for £2000, a bowler hat which had once belonged to Stan Laurel.
  • There was a chain of restaurants in Los Angeles, California known as The Brown Derby. The first and most famous of these was shaped like a derby.
  • Many paintings by the Belgian surrealist artist René Magritte feature bowler hats. The Son of Man consists of a man in a bowler hat standing in front of a wall. The man's face is largely obscured by a hovering green apple. Golconda depicts "raining men" all wearing bowler hats.
  • Choreographer Bob Fosse frequently incorporated bowler hats into his dance routines. This use of hats as props, as seen in the 1972 movie Cabaret, would become one of his trademarks.
  • In the 2007 Disney animated film Meet the Robinsons, the main antagonist is known as the Bowler Hat Guy, played by director Stephen Anderson.
  • In The Adventures of Rocky and Bullwinkle and Friends cartoon series, the legendary "Kerwood Derby" was worn by such world conquerors as Alexander the Great and Elvis Presley (a play on the name of then popular TV personality Durward Kirby).
  • In the mid-1960s Batman TV series, the Penguin's band of "fine feathered finks" usually wear derby hats.
  • There is a giant bowler hat along I-30 in south Dallas, Texas.
  • Charlie Chaplin wore a bowler hat to his morning dress as part of his 'Little Tramp' costume.
  • Bing Crosby wears a bowler hat in the 1946 film Road to Utopia, among others.
  • Oddjob, Auric Goldfinger's manservant, uses his razor-edged bowler hat as a weapon in the 1964 James Bond movie Goldfinger.
  • John D. Rockerduck possesses the distinctive character trait of eating his bowler hat whenever he is defeated by Scrooge McDuck.
  • J. Wellington Wimpy wears a bowler hat.
  • Notable comic book characters who wear bowler hats include Timothy "Dum Dum" Dugan (Marvel Comics), Thomson and Thompson and Professor Calculus from The Adventures of Tintin series, and the Riddler (DC Comics).
  • Doctor King Schultz and "Butch" Pooch wear wide Derby-variant bowler hats in Django Unchained.
  • Matthew "Stymie" Beard from the Little Rascals was always seen with a bowler hat. It was a gift from Stan Laurel.
  • Ub Iwerks character Horace Horsecollar is seen wearing an orange bowler hat complementing his outfit with an orange horse collar.

<gallery widths="200" heights="200">

File:Stan Laurel and Oliver Hardy - 1938.jpg|Laurel and Hardy, 1938.<br/>Stan Laurel took his standard comic devices from the British music hall: the bowler hat, the deep comic gravity, and nonsensical understatement.

File:Lego Store Leicester Square London Lester 2.jpg|Lego of a classic London banker (with bowler and umbrella) at the Lego store in Leicester Square, London

File:Giant Bowler Hat.png|Giant bowler hat as roadside art in south Dallas, Texas

File:Malcolm McDowell Clockwork Orange.png|Alex DeLarge in the dystopian film A Clockwork Orange (1971)

</gallery>

List of wearers

thumb|upright|[[Winston Churchill in 1884]]

  • Winston Churchill, Prime Minister during the Second World War.
  • José Rizal, a Filipino patriot and national hero, wore a bowler hat before his execution by firing squad in 1896.
  • The Plug Uglies, a nineteenth-century American street gang, wore bowler hats stuffed with cloth or wool to protect their heads while fighting.
  • John Bonham, drummer for Led Zeppelin, often wore a bowler hat.
  • Edward Coke, for whom the first bowler hat was designed.
  • Curly Howard and Shemp Howard of The Three Stooges frequently wore bowler hats.
  • Boy George often wore a bowler hat during the 1980s.
  • Dr. Peacock, Dutch DJ, music producer, label owner, event organizer and businessman.
  • Big Bully Busick, professional wrestler, who wore a bowler hat as part of his 1920s bully gimmick.
  • Hipólito Yrigoyen, President of Argentina, frequently wore a bombín hat

See also

  • List of hat styles

References

Further reading

  • Originally published in the May 1966 issue of Gourmet.