Banjarmasin

Banjarmasin is the largest city in South Kalimantan, Indonesia. It was the capital of the province until 15 February 2022. The city is located on a delta island near the confluence of the Barito and Martapura rivers. Historically the centre of the Banjarese culture, and the capital of the Sultanate of Banjar, it is the biggest city in South Kalimantan and one of the main cities of Kalimantan. The city covers an area of and had a population of 625,481 as of the 2010 Census and 657,663 as of the 2020 Census; the official estimate as of mid 2024 was 681,693 (comprising 341,066 males and 340,627 females). It is the third most populous city on the island of Borneo.

Greater Banjarmasin, also known as Banjarbakula (an acronym for Banjarmasin-Barito Kuala-Tanah Laut) or Banjar Raya, is an urban agglomeration of over two million people covering an area of , which includes Banjarbaru city and parts of Banjar Regency (including Martapura town), Barito Kuala Regency, and Tanah Laut Regency, and accounts for 2,076,771 inhabitants in mid 2024, amounting to almost half of the province's population.

Banjarmasin was the de jure seat of the South Kalimantan governor and the location of the provincial parliament, although some provincial buildings have been relocated to Banjarbaru. On 15 February 2022, the capital of South Kalimantan province was legally moved to Banjarbaru.

History

Etymology

"Banjarmasin" is thought to be a corrupted version of "Bandar Masih" (Port Masih), which was named for Patih Masih, who ruled the port and the surrounding villages. Patih Masih's name may have been a nickname. Masih originates from the Ngaju language. Oloh Masi refers to the coastal-dwelling Malay population in the language of the Dayaks, who lived in the interior and visited the port regularly to trade. Some of the Dayaks eventually settled in the port. They eventually contributed to the culture of the Banjar people, along with the Javanese and Malays.

Early history

thumb|Burial complex of Sultan Suriansyah, first sultan of Banjar

European archeologist H. Kupper discovered several prehistoric sites around the region in 1939 and found implements such as choppers and other stone tools. Most of the artifacts found around the region and the province show signs of Neolithic culture. Migration from mainland Asia to Borneo may have been common while they were connected by the Sunda Shelf. Many stone tools have been found in Awang Bangkal, from the city.

Until the early 15th century, there were few written records found from the region. Outside records indicate it was home to several kingdoms such as Tanjungpuri—theorized to have been founded by Malay people from Srivijaya—and Negara Daha and Dipa, which were founded by Javanese people from Majapahit. Hinduism and Buddhism entered the region between the first and 15th centuries. There are two candis (temples) left in the region, Candi Laras and Candi Agung. The Ma'anyan people may have ruled the oldest kingdom in the archipelago, Nan Sarunai. Its existence is disputed; speculated by archeologists based on several carved stone tombs and a Ma'anyan folk song called "Usak Jawa", which is thought to tell the story of the Majapahit conquest of the kingdom.

Henry Yule, a Scottish Orientalist, identified "Thalamasin" with Banjarmasin. He proposed that "Thalamasin" or "Thalamasyn" is a corrupted form of the Malay phrase Tanah Masin ("the land of salt"). Yule argued that the geographical and cultural descriptions of "Thalamasin" point specifically to the southern region of Borneo, making its identification with Banjarmasin highly probable. Based on Odoric's account, Yule inferred that the inhabitants of Banjarmasin at the time subsisted primarily on sago rather than rice. Yule further noted that while Odoric's description of sago processing contains inaccuracies, likely due to his unfamiliarity with the method, it nonetheless constitutes a significant historical record of the economic life and agricultural practices in Banjarmasin during that period. Additionally, Yule interpreted Odoric's reference to trees yielding both honey and wine as evidence that the local population utilized the sap of the sugar palm not only to produce an alcoholic beverage (palm wine) but also to make palm sugar and a molasses-like sticky concoction, most likely dodol.

thumb|left|[[Sultanate of Banjar|Banjarmasin delegates () paid tributes to the Qing emperor in Beijing, as depicted on Ten Thousand Nations Coming to Pay Tribute (1761).]]The history of Banjarmasin itself began during the founding of the Sultanate of Banjar. According to folk stories and the Hikayat Banjar, Sukarama, the fourth king of Negara Daha, wanted his grandson, Raden Samudra, to be his successor in the kingdom instead of his direct son Prince Tumenggung. Prince Tumenggung later banished Raden Samudra and tried to reclaim the throne for himself. Raden Samudra fled to the region that would later be known as Banjarmasin. There, he met Patih Masih. Under Samudra's leadership, the port grew into the town of Bandar Masih. Nevertheless, Banjarmasin is one of two countries located in the present-day Indonesia which depicted in the Qing dynasty era monumental painting, Ten Thousand Nations Coming to Pay Tribute (萬國來朝圖 Wànguó láicháo tú); the other is Sunda Kelapa. The monumental painting depicts foreign delegations visiting and bringing presents and tributes to the Qianlong Emperor in the Forbidden city in Beijing during the late 1750s.

Colonial era

thumb|Engagement between Banjarese [[kotta mara (floating fortress) against Dutch steam ship Celebes, 6 August 1859]]

The first contact between Europeans and the Banjar people in the region came through trade. Starting in 1596, this mostly took place in Banten. European traders, largely Dutch, did not bother visiting the port until Banten's rulers banned them. The traders resorted to attacking ships from other countries, including ships under the Banjar Sultanate, to steal nutmeg. The Sultan took revenge against a Dutch ship visiting Banjarmasin on 17 July 1607 by hijacking it and massacring the crew. Similar incidents occurred several times between 1603 and 1636, ending when the sultanate reached a trade agreement that put the Dutch East India Company in control of the nutmeg trade from the sultanate and gave it a monopoly over trade in Banjarmasin. The company was expelled in 1638, however, after the sultan waged a war against the Dutch and burned much of the company's possessions around the port. This issue was navigated by the then Governor of Java, John Fendall, who argued that the 1812 treaty’s conditions were still valid. Sovereignty was therefore effectively transferred from the British East India Company to the Sultan in late 1816, and not directly to the Dutch. As a result of the war, many Banjar people from Borneo migrated to Sumatra, Singapore, and Malaysia and formed communities there. Frequent flooding led to a plan to relocate the provincial capital city to Banjarbaru. The process continued until 2011, and the provincial parliament remains in Banjarmasin. Banjarmasin was granted city status by the Indonesian government in 1959 under Law Number 27 of 1959. On 23 May 1997, the city witnessed a riot caused by friction between supporters of the United Development Party and Golkar. The riot later developed into looting, which targeted Chinese and Christian minorities and several shopping malls. At least 137 people were killed during the riots. The riot today is known by locals as Jumat Kelabu or Grey Friday.

On 15 February 2022, the capital of South Kalimantan province was legally moved to Banjarbaru.

Geography

Banjarmasin is located in the Barito River's basin and is bisected by the Martapura River. The slope of the city is 0.13% and the land is generally flat and low-lying. The geological foundation of the city is dominated by clay and sandstone, but also includes alluvial sediments from the river. Several smaller rivers, all connected to either the Martapura River or Barito River, form a dendritic drainage pattern. The city's river system is affected by tides. The city is located in a swampy region and is generally below water level, making it prone to being flooded by tidal bores.

Governance

thumb|Banjarmasin city hall building

Administrative division

The city is divided into five districts (kecamatan). The most densely populated district is Central Banjarmasin with a density of 13,155 per square kilometre while the least densely populated district is South Banjarmasin with density of 4,281 per square kilometre. , South, North, and East Banjarmasin district experienced population growth—South and North both by 1.10% and East by 0.58%; Central and West Banjarmasin both experienced declines of 0.46%. Their areas and populations at the 2010 Census are tabulated below. The table also includes the locations of the district administrative centres, the number of urban villages (all rated as kelurahan) in each district, and its postal codes.

{| class="sortable wikitable"

! Kode Wilayah|| Name of District (kecamatan) || Area in km2 || Pop'n Census 2010 || Pop'n Census 2020 || Pop'n Estimate mid 2024 ||Admin centre|| No. of villages ||Post code

| 63.71.01 || Banjarmasin Selatan (South Banjarmasin) ||align="right"|38.24||align="right"|146,068||align="right"|163,948||align="right"|170,638||Kelayan Selatan||align="center"|12||70241 - 70249

| 63.71.02 || Banjarmasin Timur (East Banjarmasin) ||align="right"|17.71||align="right"|111,912||align="right"|118,389||align="right"|125,988||Kuripan||align="center"|9||70234 – 70239

| 63.71.03 || Banjarmasin Barat (West Banjarmasin) ||align="right"|12.97||align="right"|143,461||align="right"|136,964||align="right"|137,145||Pelambuan ||align="center"|9||70112 – 70245

| 63.71.05 || Banjarmasin Tengah (Central Banjarmasin) ||align="right"|6.72||align="right"|91,700||align="right"|87,479||align="right"|89,989||Teluk Dalam||align="center"|12||70111 – 70241

| 63.71.04 || Banjarmasin Utara (North Banjarmasin) ||align="right"|22.73||align="right"|132,340||align="right"|150,883||align="right"|157,933||Alalak Utara||align="center"|10||70121 – 70127

| || Totals ||align="right"|98.37||align="right"|625,481||align="right"|657,663||align="right"|681,693|| ||align="center"|52||

Local government

As with all Indonesian cities, Banjarmasin is a second-level administrative division run by a mayor and a vice mayor together with the city parliament, and is equivalent to a regency. Executive power is vested in the mayor and vice mayor, while legislative duties are vested in the local parliament. The mayor, vice mayor, and parliament members are directly elected by the people of the city in an election. Heads of districts are appointed by the mayor on the recommendation of the city secretary.

Politics

On the provincial level, Banjarmasin is part of South Kalimantan's first electoral district, which has 8 out of 55 representatives. On the city level, the city is divided into five electoral districts, which have a total of 45 parliamentary representatives. The last election was in 2019 and the next one is scheduled for 2024.

{| class="wikitable"

!Electoral district

!Region

!Representatives

| align="center" |Banjarmasin 1st

|Central Banjarmasin District

| align="center" |6

| align="center" |Banjarmasin 2nd

|North Banjarmasin District

| align="center" |10

| align="center" |Banjarmasin 3rd

|East Banjarmasin District

| align="center" |8

| align="center" |Banjarmasin 4th

|South Banjarmasin District

| align="center" |11

| align="center" |Banjarmasin 5th

|West Banjarmasin District

| align="center" |10

! colspan="2" |Total

| align="center" |45

Banjarbakula (Greater Banjarmasin)

The Banjarmasin metropolitan area comprises two complete cities (Banjarmasin and Banjarbaru), together with large parts of three regencies as follows:

{| class="sortable wikitable"

! Name of City or Regency || Area in km2 || Pop'n Census 2020 || Pop'n Estimate mid 2024

| Banjarmasin (city) ||align="right"|98.37||align="right"|657,663||align="right"|681,693

| Banjarbaru (city) ||align="right"|305.15||align="right"|253,442||align="right"|285,546

| Banjar Regency (part (a) ) ||align="right"|1,756.75||align="right"|507,240||align="right"|521,819

| Barito Kuala Regency (part (b) ) ||align="right"|1,593.27||align="right"|250,078||align="right"|262,951

| Tanah Laut Regency (part (c) ) ||align="right"|2,984.16||align="right"|305,898||align="right"|324,762

| Total Banjarbakula ||align="right"|6,737.70||align="right"|1,974,321||align="right"|2,076,771

Notes: (a) 14 out of 20 districts. (b) 12 out of 17 districts. (c) 10 out of 11 districts (all except Kintap District).

Economy

thumb|[[Bank Central Asia|BCA branch in Banjarmasin]]

The city's economy is dominated by manufacturing, which accounts for 17.19% of its gross regional product (GRP) as of 2020. The second largest sector is trade, which accounts for 12.57% of the city's GRP, followed by the finance sector at 12.29%. The agriculture sector is small, contributing only 2.43% of city's GRP. Mining is nonexistent within the city, in stark contrast to neighbouring regions. In 2019, economic growth was 6.38%. However, in 2020 there was an economic downturn caused by the COVID-19 pandemic, resulting in a decrease of 1.91%. The city imports of goods through its main port, the Port of Trisakti, and exports of goods . Movement of goods increased 92.24% between 2018 and 2019. Banjarmasin experienced 4.15% yearly inflation in 2019.

There are 3,014 industrial companies registered in the city as of 2020, employing a total of 22,063 people. There are also smaller-scale industries producing wood furniture, clothing, and snacks, with 88 registered smaller-scale businesses in these sectors as of 2020. There is also a small population of Arabs and Indians that dates back to the Sultanate and colonial era.

Education

thumb|Muhammad Arsyad Al Banjari Islamic University of Kalimantan in Banjarmasin

The literacy rate in 2020 was 98.94%. There are 311 kindergartens, 208 elementary schools, 35 junior high schools, and 29 senior high schools as of 2020. There are also 22 vocational high schools in the city. The city is home to more than 25 higher education institutions and universities. One of the most notable, which is also a public university, is the Lambung Mangkurat University. The university has more than 2,000 graduates every year—most of them majoring in teaching and science education, followed by economics and business, engineering, agricultural science, and medical subjects. In 2020, there were 700 postgraduate students. A developed education system and the existence of educational institutions attract students from neighbouring regions to pursue their education in the city.

Healthcare

thumb|Ulin Regional Hospital building

The city has eight hospitals and 34 polyclinics as of 2020. There are also 26 puskesmas (community healthcare centres), 26 healthcare centres, and 47 pharmacies. The main and largest hospital in the city is Ulin Regional Hospital, which is owned by the provincial government; it is classified as an A-type hospital by the Ministry of Health. Life expectancy in the city as of 2020 was 71.13 years, which is significantly above the provincial average. One annual event that is celebrated widely by the people of the city is Haul Guru Sekumpul, an event commemorating the death of a charismatic ulema from the region, Zaini Abdul Ghani.

Another famous cultural sight in the city is a floating market located on the Kuin River and Lok Baintan. People meet on the river after Fajr prayer until around 07:00 pm and transactions with the merchants are done from small boats. Small snacks, vegetables, fruits, meat, and many other groceries are sold at the market. This market is dying, however, and the number of merchants has declined because of the shift from river culture to land culture and competition with regular land markets. The city is home to a cultural center building surrounded by a cultural park where traditional artists can often be seen performing. The building and its surrounding has been used regularly to hold cultural events to preserve Banjarese culture, as well as to facilitate local artists.

City parks

thumb|Siring Park at night

There are several city parks and public spaces in the city, one of the most notable being Siring Park, located in the center of the city. Sometimes referred to by locals as "0 Kilometer Park", the park is located on the shores of the Martapura River and also acts as a waterfront for the river with docks for small boats in the river. Facilities in the park include a watchtower, several gazebos, pedestrian roads, and skateboard parks. In front of the park, there is an urban bus stop used by both Trans Banjarmasin & BRT Banjarbakula bus companies. In addition, the park includes one of the city's landmarks, a statue of a bekantan (Proboscis monkey) which is a native primate in the region. The park is also a center for street foods in the city during dusk.

Other city parks include Kamboja Park, Bungas Banjarmasin Park, and Banua Anyar Public Space. Located from the city center, Banua Anyar Public Space is specifically designed for toddlers and kids. It is located below Banua Anyar bridge and has facilities such as a kids' park, artificial soft grass to ensure child safety, and book reading corners.

Others

thumb|Duta Mall Banjarmasin is the biggest shopping mall in the city

Several shopping malls are located in the city. The Duta Mall Banjarmasin is the largest in the province, and connected to a hotel called The Mercure Hotel. Located in Central Banjarmasin district, it occupies more than and consists of four stories. It is also surrounded by several other buildings housing stores, forming a complex with a total area of . Other entertainment centers in the city include Trans Studio Mini Banjarmasin, an indoor theme park which is owned by Trans Corp and malls such as Mitra Plaza, Lotte Mart, and Giant. Mitra Plaza is one of the city's oldest modern shopping centers, and was a target of looting and destruction during the Banjarmasin riot of May 1997. It was renovated after the riot. Other than modern shopping malls, according to Statistics Indonesia, as of 2019, there are 60 traditional markets registered in the city.

Transportation

left|thumb|A flyover in Banjarmasin

The city has of road, most of which have been paved with asphalt. It is connected to the Trans-Kalimantan Highway Southern Route, which connects it to other big cities such as Palangka Raya and Samarinda. Kilometer 6 Bus Terminal is the main bus terminal for the city and the province, where buses for long inter-province routes gather. Being old and overcrowded, the government relocated the main terminal to the newly built Kilometer 17 Bus Terminal in Gambut District, Banjar Regency. However, the new terminal is rarely used and many bus operators resisted the relocation because of the remoteness of the new terminal from the city center.

thumb|Martapura River in Banjarmasin City

Being divided by a big navigable river, speed boats on the river are also an important means of transportation within the city. Ride-hailing services such as Gojek and Grab are widespread. The city has three urban bus services, BRT Banjarbakula which connects it to the Greater Banjarmasin area and Trans Banjarmasin, which only serves the city proper. As with other Indonesian cities, the city has angkots (shared taxis), which have been declining rapidly because of competition from online ride-hailing services, online taxis, and new public transportation services created by the city government. On 22 December 2021, another urban bus system, Trans Banjarbakula, was launched which also covers the entire metropolitan area.

The city is served by the Port of Trisakti, which is one of main ports in Indonesia and classified as class IA. The port has a passenger terminal for passenger ships to neighbouring islands such as Java and Sulawesi. The closest airport is the Syamsudin Noor Airport, which located inside Banjarbaru city, from Banjarmasin.

Media

thumb|Banjarmasin Post office building

There are numerous newspapers, television stations, and radio based in Banjarmasin. The city is center of mass media in the province of South Kalimantan. Known established media groups such as Banjarmasin Post, Kalimantan Post, and Radar Banjarmasin existed since early New Order period, while numerous smaller independent media were founded mostly after Reformasi. Other example of news media are Barito Post, Mata Banua, Metro Banjar, and Kanal Kalimantan. In total, there were 47 registered news media including printed and online, 36 tabloids, and 4 magazines in the city.

In television sector, outside of nationwide networks both private and state-owned, there are local television stations focused mostly on local news. State-owned television network TVRI has local branch for South Kalimantan located in Banjarmasin, while Duta TV and Banjar TV, two most prominent local channels, are private. According to the government source, there are 21 formally registered radio station.