Antigua Guatemala (), commonly known as Antigua or La Antigua, is a city in the central highlands of Guatemala. The city was the capital of the Captaincy General of Guatemala from 1543 through 1773, with much of its Baroque-influenced architecture and layout dating from that period. Antigua Guatemala serves as the capital of the homonymous municipality and the Sacatepéquez Department.

Because of its outstanding Spanish Baroque-influenced architecture, layout, churches, and ruins, and the city's importance during the early colonial period of the country, Antigua Guatemala was designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1979.

History

thumb|upright=0.8|Façade of the former El Carmen church in 2009

Antigua Guatemala means "Old Guatemala" and was the third capital of Guatemala, formerly called "Santiago de los Caballeros de Guatemala".

16th century

The first capital of Guatemala was founded east of Lake Atitlán, on the site of a Kaqchikel-Maya city, named Iximche, close to contemporary Tecpán, Guatemala, on Monday, July 25, 1524—the day of Saint James—and therefore named Ciudad de Santiago de los Caballeros de Guatemala (City of Saint James of the Knights of Guatemala). In accordance with Catholic tradition, St. James (Santiago) became the patron saint of the city.

After several Kaqchikel uprisings, the capital was moved to a more easily controlled site in the Valley of Almolonga, on November 22, 1527, and kept its original name. This new city was located on the site of present-day San Miguel Escobar, which is a neighborhood in the municipality of Ciudad Vieja just south of contemporary Antigua. This second capital was destroyed on September 11, 1541, by a devastating lahar from the Volcán de Agua.

As a result, the colonial authorities decided to move the capital once more, this time north to the Panchoy Valley. So, on March 10, 1543, the Spanish conquistadors founded present-day Antigua, and again, it was named Santiago de los Caballeros. For 230 years, it served as the seat of the Captaincy General of Guatemala (Spanish: Capitanía General de Guatemala), also known as the Kingdom of Guatemala (Spanish: Reino de Guatemala), an administrative division of the Spanish Empire, under the viceroyalty of New Spain in Central America.

Hence Santiago de los Caballeros was the third seat of the capital of The Kingdom of Guatemala, which included the current nations of Guatemala, Belize, El Salvador, Honduras, Nicaragua and Costa Rica, plus the contemporary state of Chiapas in Mexico. After a flood destroyed the second capital, located in the Valley of Almolonga, on the slopes of Volcán de Agua, a new city was built in 1543 in the Valley of Panchoy, and it was established as head of the Real Audiencia of Guatemala in 1549.

The new city was laid out in a square pattern, with streets running north to south and from east to west, with a central square. Both church and government buildings were designated important places around the central plaza. Between 1549 and 1563, property southeast of the square was sold to the crown and occupied by the first president of the Real Audiencia de los Confines: the lawyer Alonso Lopez Cerrato, who also served as governor and captain general. The original building was small and paneled with portal, tile roof, and adobe walls. The city is surrounded by three enormous volcanoes and mountains, plains and hills. This territory was called Valley of Guatemala and had 73 villages, two towns and the city of Santiago de los Caballeros.

Due to constant problems between the conquerors and the representatives of the crown sent by the king of Spain, the Audiencia de los Confines was abolished in 1565. In 1570 the assembly was restored, this time independent of the viceroy of Mexico, and was called Audiencia of Guatemala. The Franciscan complex became a major cultural and religious center for the entire Captaincy General of Guatemala. Theologians, jurists, philosophers, physicists, and mathematicians studied in the school of San Buenaventura, which was located where the monastery ruins are. Notable students included Cristóbal de Villalpando, Thomas Merlo, and Alonso de Paz.

thumb|upright=0.8 |Mermaid Fountain, built by Diego de Porres in 1737, Antigua Guatemala central square

The first building of a cathedral was begun in 1545 with the debris brought from the destroyed settlement in the valley of Almolonga; however, its construction was hampered by frequent earthquakes throughout the years. The city was the final resting place of the great Spanish chronicler Bernal Díaz del Castillo, and his remains were interred in one of the churches that was eventually ruined by earthquakes.

The construction of the royal houses for the residence of the Captain General and the members of the Real Audiencia started in 1558; the complex also included the Royal Treasury, jail, Army quarters, the Hall of Arms, and the housing of Audiencia members.

In the sixteenth century, there were several important earthquakes on the following dates:

  • March 21, 1530
  • September 11, 1541
  • 1565 (exact date unknown)
  • 1575 (exact date unknown)
  • November 30, 1577
  • December 23, 1585

In 1566 King Felipe II of Spain gave it the title of "Muy Noble y Muy Leal" ("Very Noble and Very Loyal").

17th century

The Jesuits founded the school of "San Lucas of the Society of Jesus" in 1608, which became famous and was unrivaled in terms of literature and grammar lessons; it was attended by the elite nobles of the city society, such as Francisco Antonio Fuentes y Guzman, the chronicler Francisco Vázquez, and Pedro Betancourt. On 18 July 1626, the Jesuit temple was inaugurated; along with the rest of the city, it suffered and was damaged by continuous earthquakes that struck the city between the sixteenth and eighteenth centuries. In 1653, the San Lucas School had a staff of only thirteen priests, a very small number compared to the size of the building; the Jesuits, however, made a major impact on the cultural and educational life in the Capitanía General of Guatemala. The school was the city's most prestigious, and from it graduated most of the elite members of society of the time. Most of its students were secular and went on to get the best positions in the country. After a lengthy and cumbersome organizational process that lasted five years, the university started classes on January 7, 1681, with more than sixty registered students under President Doctor José de Baños y Soto Mayor, Cathedral archdeacon, King of Spain preacher and Doctor from the University of Osuna. The university began its activities under the protection of Saint Carlos Borromeo, and its norms and regulations were copied from those of the México University which, in turn, were adapted from those of the Universidad de Salamanca in Spain.

The first classes given in the university were:

  • Canonic law
  • Medicine
  • Scholastic theology
  • Moral theology
  • Languages

The Royal University of San Carlos Borromeo became pontifical via the papal bull of Pope Innocent XI, issued and dated 18 June 1687.

18th century

San Miguel Earthquake

thumb|A church damaged by an earthquake

The strongest earthquakes experienced by the city of Santiago de los Caballeros before its final move in 1776 were the San Miguel earthquakes in 1717. At that time, the power of the Catholic Church over the Spanish Empire's citizens was absolute and any natural disaster was considered as divine punishment. In the city, people also believed that the proximity of the Volcán de Fuego (English: Volcano of Fire) was the cause of earthquakes; the great architect Diego de Porres even said that all the earthquakes were caused by volcano explosions. Photograph by Arnold Genthe.]]

thumb|A poor native family living in the ruins of [[Church and Convent of Capuchins|Capuchins, as described by prince Wilhelm of Sweden in 1920.<br />Instituto Nacional de Sismología, Vulcanología, Meteorología e Hidrología de Guatemala

Population

thumb|upright=1.35|Central square of Antigua Guatemala in 1887.

The city had a peak population of some 65,000 in the 1770s; the bulk of the population moved away in the late 18th century after the 1773 Guatemala earthquake. Emergency medical services are provided by Bomberos Municipales (Guatemala) and Bomberos Voluntarios (Guatemala), who have both previously worked with LFR International to improve prehospital care.

Tourism and historic sites

Antigua is the most popular tourist destination in Guatemala, with easy access from Guatemala City and La Aurora International Airport.

Central Park (Parque Central) is the heart of the city, with the reconstructed fountain there acting as a popular gathering spot. To the north of the Central Park is the Arco de Santa Catalina, one of the most recognizable architectural landmarks of Antigua.

Antigua is the jumping-off-point for hikes of the Acatenango (Fuego) and Pacaya volcanos.

Spanish colonial monuments

Before it was declared a National Monument by president Jorge Ubico on March 30, 1944, the city ruins were practically abandoned. The following galleries show images of the destruction of the structures due to earthquakes and abandonment. There were other churches, such as Nuestra Señora del Carmen and the Society of Jesus, that endured the 1773 earthquake relatively well, but they were abandoned and the earthquakes from 1917 to 1918 and 1976 destroyed them. In the particular case of de San Francisco El Grande church, it was in good structural condition after the 1773 and 1917 earthquakes, and it was rebuilt in 1967 when the Franciscans returned to Guatemala. This eventually protected the structure from significant damage in the 1976 earthquake. Finally, La Merced church was practically new in 1773, and it has withstood time and earthquakes since; the church was not abandoned in 1776, but it was indeed abandoned in 1829 when the Mercedarians were expelled from Central America by general Francisco Morazán, along with the rest of regular clergy and the conservative party members and Aycinena family.

{| class="mw-collapsible wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto; width:70%; font-size:90%;" align=center

|- style="color:white;"

!style="background:#659ec7; width:15%;"|Name

!style="background:#659ec7; width:25%;"|Picture

!style="background:#659ec7; width:75%;"|Brief description

|-

!style="background:lemonchiffon;"|Captain General Palace

| style="text-align:center;" |150px

|Residence of the Captain General of General Captaincy of Guatemala during the Spanish colony. After the Santa Marta earthquake in 1773 it was abandoned and used as a warehouse. In the 21st century the buildings include the offices of Guatemala Institute of Tourisms -INGUAT-, the city National Police headquarters and the Sacatepéquez Governor's office, among others.

|-

!style="background:lemonchiffon;"|City Hall

| style="text-align:center;" | 150px

|-

!style="background:lemonchiffon;"|Cathedral of Saint James<br />San José Parish

| style="text-align:center;" |150px

|The first building was begun in 1545 with rubble brought from the destroyed settlement in the valley of Almolonga. Its construction was hampered by frequent earthquakes. A second sanctuary would be inaugurated in 1680. Cathedral status was obtained in 1743. The first cathedral housed the remains of the conquistador Pedro de Alvarado who had been transferred there at the request of his daughter in 1568, but disappeared following one of the multiple earthquakes that damaged the city over the years.

|-

!style="background:lemonchiffon;"|Church and Convent of Capuchins

| style="text-align:center;" |150px

|Originally called "Convent and Church of Our Lady of the Pond of Zaragoza", was approved by Felipe V in 1725. Construction work began in 1731 and the building was consecrated in 1736. The daily routine of the professed was governed by strict regulatory rules including the strictest poverty, penance, and fasting; also the discalced nuns had to survive on handouts provided by the faithful. After the Santa Marta earthquake, although the convent was not completely affected, its assets were transferred to the new Guatemala de la Asunción by order of the Captain General.

|-

!style="background:lemonchiffon;"|La Recolección

| style="text-align:center;" |150px

|In 1685 two "Recoleto" missionaries came to the city of Santiago de los Caballeros, and when some more monks of their order arrived in the following years, asked permission of the City Hall to build a monastery; but in 1695, the City Hall made it known that there was insufficient reason to justify the construction because there were already enough monasteries in the city. Following this refusal, the friars went to the Real Audiencia which authorized construction in 1700, by a royal decree. Construction of the buildings began in 1701, and six years later the first stone of the church was placed. In 1708 the convent, library and infirmary were completed. The church was inaugurated on May 23, 1717.

|-

!style="background:lemonchiffon;"|San Francisco

| style="text-align:center;" |140px

|This was the first sanctuary built on Santiago de los Caballeros in the 16th century. Since its beginning, it has suffered seismic damage: in 1565 the first building was severely damaged and the tremors continued until 1773. After being abandoned for almost two hundred years, the Franciscans recovered the property, and it has been open for Catholic worship since. The facade of the church is adorned with baroque columns and two bell towers. Adjacent to the church are the ruins of the old Franciscan convent. The temple has a special chapel that houses the remains of Saint Hermano Pedro de San José de Betancur, a missionary from the Canary Islands.

|-

!style="background:lemonchiffon;"|La Merced Church

|style="text-align:center;" | 150px

|Architect Juan de Dios Estrada was in charge of its construction, which began in 1749. The temple was inaugurated in 1767 and is in ultra baroque Guatemalan style with two bell towers.

|-

!style="background:lemonchiffon;"|Church and School of the Society of Jesus

|style="text-align:center;" | 150px

|Created by Royal Decree dated August 9, 1561, it was built with money donated in part by the chronicler Bernal Diaz del Castillo. Originally it consisted of three cloisters and a temple, and eventually hosted up to twelve Jesuits. It worked as "Colegio de San Lucas of the Society of Jesus" from 1608 until the order was expelled in 1767: "The school became famous and was unrivaled in terms of teaching of literature and grammar; it served the elite of Santiago de los Caballeros society, and among its students were chroniclers Francisco Antonio Fuentes y Guzmán and Francisco Vázquez, and priests Pedro Betancourt and Rafael Landívar." The structure remained in relatively good condition after the 1773 earthquake, but it was eventually destroyed by the 1917–18 and 1976 earthquakes.

|-

!style="background:lemonchiffon;"|Santo Domingo Monastery

| style="text-align:center;" | 150px

|Originally one of the most important and largest in the city, the Convent of Santo Domingo was destroyed in 1773 and abandoned by the transfer of the Dominicans to their site in Guatemala City . The ruins were sold to individuals and converted into the Hotel Casa Santo Domingo in 1989. In 2013 the 43rd General Assembly of the Organization of American States was held at their facilities.

|-

!style="background:lemonchiffon;"|Escuela de Cristo Church

| style="text-align:center;" | 150px

|The temple was founded in the parish of the Holy Cross in 1664 and from 1689 it was known as the "Congregation of San Felipe de Neri". Due to the earthquakes in San Miguel in 1717 the building was damaged; the reconstruction was finalized in 1730 under the leadership of Mayor Architect Diego de Porres. In 1784, it was moved to "Our Lady of Remedies" parish, when the clergy of this church moved to Nueva Guatemala de la Asunción. The façade has an architectural renaissance style and is made of stone, like the church of the Capuchins, a characteristic that distinguishes them from the other temples in the city. In this church were originally the remains of Pedro de San José de Betancur.

|-

!style="background:lemonchiffon;"|Nuestra Señora del Carmen Church

| style="text-align:center;" |150px

|Even though it survived the Santa Marta earthquakes, it was almost destroyed by the earthquakes of 1917-18 and 1976. However, its façade survived in very good condition, and has been admired ever since as an example of Guatemalan Baroque.

|-

!style="background:lemonchiffon;"|San Pedro Hospital

| style="text-align:center;" | 150px

|The monks of San Juan de Dios congregation founded their first hospital and monastery in 1636 and were in charge of the hospitals in the Kingdom of Guatemala ever since.

Education

Antigua is known as a destination for people who want to learn Spanish through immersion. There are many Spanish language schools in Antigua, and it is one of the most popular and best recognized centers for studying the Spanish language by students from Europe, Asia, and North America. Language institutes are one of the primary industries of Antigua, along with tourism.

Sports

Antigua football club plays in the Liga Nacional, the top division of Guatemalan football. Their home stadium is the Estadio Pensativo, which has a capacity of 10,000. They are nicknamed Los Panzas Verdes ("Green Bellies") and have been successful nationally, having won the league title five times since 2015.

In films

The New Adventures of Tarzan (1935)

In 1935, the film The New Adventures of Tarzan was filmed on location in Guatemala, taking advantage of the help from the United Fruit Company and president Jorge Ubico. The places where the filming was made were:

  • Chichicastenango: scenes of a native town where the explorers first met.
  • Antigua Guatemala: The Green Goddess temple
  • Río Dulce
  • Puerto Barrios: arrival and departure of the boats carrying the explorers
  • Tikal: jungle scenes
  • Quiriguá: Mayan city where they get lectured on the Maya civilization
  • Guatemala City: then luxurious Palace Hotel was used to shoot the scenes of the hotel in the imaginary town of At Mantique

See also

  • Guatemala City
  • List of places in Guatemala
  • Tourism in Guatemala

Notes and references

References

Bibliography

  • Municipality Website
  • La Merced, Antigua Guatemala
  • Guatelinda
  • Maps:
  • La ruta maya: Antigua Guatemala Map
  • Antigua Guatemala films documentaries:
  • 1934 in Antigua Guatemala
  • 1950 in Antigua Guatemala